DIY Storage Bench with D. Lawless Hardware – August’s FFFC

I have a bad habit of starting new projects before completing old projects.  About a year ago, I started to build a storage bench following plans by Ana White.  I was about half way done with the building portion of it when I stopped working on it.  I don’t recall what distracted me from completion, but it sat in my garage for months!

(Instagram informs me that I took this photo 52 weeks ago from today.  Yikes!)

Today I’m working on an entry way storage bench. I can’t wait to get this one done! #woodworking #krejjig #garageshop #shanty2chic #anawhite #sawdustfriday #pockethole #letsdothis #diy

A photo posted by Ashley Grenon (@handmadewithashley) on Aug 28, 2015 at 11:06am PDT

When I joined August’s Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest, I looked around the house for a piece of old furniture that could use some TLC.  I then got the idea of revisiting the bench project. Today, I will share the steps I took to build and finish the bench.  However before I begin, I want to first give the Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest and this month’s sponsor the proper introduction!

The Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest

Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest

The Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest is a monthly furniture decorating contest.  Each month there is a new theme and a new sponsor.  August’s theme is “class it up,” and August’s sponsor is D. Lawless Hardware!  D. Lawless Hardware has a huge selection of hardware for really good prices.

The Fab Furniture Flippin’ Hosts

The Storage Bench

I am really happy with the final look of the storage bench.  I used 4 large 2″ ring pulls from D. Lawless Hardware in the Dark Antique Bronze (item number P3031-DAB).

DIY Storage Bench with pulls from D. Lawless Hardware

Here’s a close up on the pulls:

Large 2″ Ring Pulls (Dark Antique Bronze) from D. Lawless Hardware

DIY Storage Bench

Building the Bench

I closely followed Ana White’s plans for the Alexia Storage bench.

Bench sides assembled

Attaching the bench back

Attaching a decorative trim

Finishing the Bench

Once the surface of the bench was prepped, I stained the seat portion of the bench with Danish Oil (Dark Walnut) and I painted the bottom portion of the bench with an off-white color.

I forgot to precondition the wood before staining and I was a little worried about the appearance, but I have successfully convinced myself it gives the bench a lot of character.

That moment when you realize you forgot to precondition the wood before staining. I keep telling myself it gives it character. #almostdone #diy #woodworking #thatmomentwhen #diyfurniture #woodwork #woodworker #wood #kregjig #anawhite #shanty2chic #danishoil #watco #furniture #buildersgonnabuild #buildallthethings #storagebench #bench

A photo posted by Ashley Grenon (@handmadewithashley) on Aug 25, 2016 at 6:35pm PDT

Installing the Hardware

After the finish dried, I installed drawer slides for the drawers and installed the ring pulls.

Trying to decided on where to place the pulls

Drilled holes for installing the ring pulls

DIY Storage Bench with D. Lawless Hardware – August’s FFFC

DIY Storage Bench

DIY Storage Bench

DIY Storage Bench

DIY Storage Bench with pulls from D. Lawless Hardware

The post DIY Storage Bench with D. Lawless Hardware – August’s FFFC appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Rustic Console Tutorial

Hello, everyone! Today I want to share with you my latest creation: a rustic console!  This is a pretty easy build that you could knock out in couple weekends.  Follow along for steps on how to build one of your own!

Rustic Console model

(For sneak peeks on upcoming projects follow me on Facebook and Instagram!)

DIY Rustic Console

Disclosure:  This post contains some affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to build the rustic console:

Tools

• Handsaw (or any saw of your choice)
• Jigsaw
• Kreg Jig
• Drill
• Driver
• Orbital sander
• Belt sander
• Various clamps

Supplies

• ECOS Paints Woodshield Stain (Pine Needles)
• ECOS Paints Woodshield Varnish (Satin)
• Various grits of sandpaper
• Foam brushes

Lumber

• 1x6x10 (3)
• 1x4x10 (3)
• 1x8x6 (1)
• 1x2x8 (1)

My current passenger. #diy #woodworking

A photo posted by Ashley Grenon (@handmadewithashley) on Mar 11, 2016 at 8:43am PST

The estimated price of all the supplies and lumber is roughly $150.

Cut List

• A) 1×2 – 14 1/2″ (4)
• B) 1×4 – 43 1/4″ (2)
• C) 1×4 – 43″ (2)
• D) 1×4 – 28 3/4″ (4)
• E) 1×4 – 14 1/4″ (2)
• F) 1×6 – 48″ (2)
• G) 1×6 – 43 1/4″ (4)
• H) 1×8 – 48″ (1)

Lumber cut into the appropriate sizes

How to build a Rustic Console

For this project, I finally sat down and learned how to create models in SketchUp!  You can download the PDF woodworking plans for the console here.

If you’re interested in learning SketchUp, I highly recommend the video tutorials by Matthias at Woodworking for Engineers.

Step 1:  Taper the table legs (optional)

If you would like to add a little flair to your console, taper the ends of each table leg (board D) with a jigsaw.

Tapering the table legs with a jigsaw

Step 2:  Create pocket holes

I used a Kreg Jig pocket hole system for a majority of the joints in this project.  Drill pocket holes in the locations indicated on the diagrams.

Drilling pocket holes

Step 3:  Assemble the console legs.

Assemble the table legs

To form a pair of table legs, sandwich board E between boards D.  Offset board E 1″ from the edge of board D.  Repeat.

Assembling the table legs

Step 4: Connect the pair of legs with an apron

Attach the aprons

Connect the pair of legs together with boards C.  This will form the frame of the console.

Rustic console frame

Step 5: Attach shelf supports

Attach the shelf supports

Attach the shelf supports (boards A) to each pair of legs.  Attach the shelf supports adjacent to the inside edge of the table leg pairs.  The first set of shelf supports are placed 13 3/4″ from the top of the leg.  The second set of shelf supports are placed 25 1//2″ from the top of the leg.

Attaching the shelf supports

Step 6: Edge join the console shelves

Create the top shelf by edge joining boards F and H together.  Board H should be in the middle.

Create the two lower shelves by joining boards G and B together.  Board B should be in the middle.

Gluing up the shelves

If neccessary, use a belt sander to smooth down the  joints.

Step 7:  Attach the console frame to the top shelf

Attach the top shelf

Attach the top shelf to the console frame.

Attaching the top shelf

Step 8:  Attach the lower shelves to the console frame

Attach the lower shelves

Attaching the lower shelves

I made some great progress on the console. Up next: sanding! Has anyone used a scraper? I think I may try one in the future. #woodworking #diy #warpedwood #kregjig #buildallthethings #buildsomething #wood #furniture #diyblogger #diyfurniture

A photo posted by Ashley Grenon (@handmadewithashley) on Mar 15, 2016 at 9:42am PDT

Step 9: Sand, stain and seal!

Thoroughly sand the console.  Use your favorite stain and sealer to finish the console.

Staining the rustic console

I used ECOS Paints Woodshield stain (Pine Needles) and satin sealer.

DIY Rustic Console

If you build a rustic console, please leave a comment below or tag me on Instagram @handmadewithashley or Twitter @handmadewithash.   I’d love to see your pictures!

DIY Rustic Console

DIY Rustic Console

DIY Rustic Console

DIY Rustic Console

The post DIY Rustic Console Tutorial (FREE Plans) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Christmas Tree Address Sign

I have a huge pile of scrap wood that grows larger by the day.  I was really excited to see Sandra over at the Sawdust Girl create a sCrap wood challenge!  I love challenges! I have no greater motivator for get things done.

My submission for the sCrap wood challenge is a Christmas Tree address sign.  I built this from a leftover piece of cedar picket fence.   In this post, I’ll go over the steps I took to create the sign.

Christmas tree address sign

Tree ready for it’s outdoor debut!

Wooden Christmas Tree Address Sign

Disclosure:  This post contains affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

Here’s a list of the tools and supplies I used to create the sign.

• 6 ft Cedar Picket Fence (or a scrap piece of 1×12 board ~3 ft long)
• Wood Glue
• Scroll Saw
• Orbital Sander
• Acrylic Craft Paints (I used Delta Ceramcoat)
• Mod Podge
• Scrapbook Paper
• 1 inch circle paper punch

How to Make the Address Sign

This is a super easy project that you could knock out in on afternoon.

Step 1:  Cut the picket fence in half and edge to edge join the boards.

First up, cut the cedar picket fence in half.  Apply glue to the long edge of one half and clamp the two halves together creating a ~11 inch wide board.

Edge to edge joint of the cedar halves

Step 2:  Draw the outline of a Christmas tree onto the board.

Next up, sketch a quick outline of a Christmas onto the board.  I started out with a triangle and from there flushed out the details.  Also, trace the outline of the address numbers onto the board.  I used Arial Bold.

Drawing the shapes

Step 3:  Cut out the tree  and numbers with a jigsaw or a scroll saw.

Once the lines are drawn, you’re ready to cut! I used my scroll saw to cut out the shapes.  My saw was equiped with a Flying Dutchman spiral scroll saw blade and it cut the cedar like butter.

Scrolling out the shapes

Step 4:  Sand!

Take a moment and sand down the pieces.  I cycled through grits 60, 100 and 120 with my orbital sander.

Sanding the shapes with an orbital sander

Step 5:  Paint the tree and the numbers.

Next up, paint the tree with acrylic craft paints.  I used Delta Ceramcoat colors.  This line of craft paints is my favorite because of the quality compared to other brands that I have tried.  The base coat of the tree is Spring Green (02517) and the numbers are painted with Tompte Red (02107).

Painting the tree

Step 6:  Add paper ornaments.

For some added sparkle, cut 1 inch wide circles from glitter scrapbook paper and glue it to the tree.  I used Mod Podge to seal the paper and attach it to the tree.

Paper punching glitter scrapbook paper

Steps 7 & 8:  Attach the numbers and seal the project!

Finally, attach the wooden numbers to the tree ( I used  wood glue), and seal the wooden tree.

Tree ready for it’s outdoor debut!

The toddler is digging the address sign

DIY Christmas Tree Address Sign

The post DIY Christmas Tree Address Sign (Scrap Wood Challenge) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Geometric Kids Art Table

My little toddler has discovered the wonderful world of coloring.  He adores scribbling with crayons and markers.  I wanted to create a bright and colorful space to encourage his artistic abilities.  I wanted to build him an art table!  Today I will share with you how I built my little toddler’s art table and how I applied its finish.  However, before I dive into the steps, I want to introduce you to the Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest!

(For sneak peeks on upcoming projects follow me on Facebook and Instagram!)

Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest

The Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest is a monthly furniture decorating contest.  Each month there is a new theme and a new sponsor.  September’s theme is geometry, and September’s sponsor is General Finishes!

General Finishes

General Finishes carries a nice variety of water based and oil based finishes.  I think they are best known for their gel stains.  (I have been wanting to try their gel stain for quite some time now.)  Each participant received one quart of a General Finishes product, and the winner will receive a full case of General Finishes products. This post is my first entry in the Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest, and I received one quart of Milk Paint from General Finishes.

Our Fab Hosts

September’s fab hosts are Lynn from Fern Avenue and Carrie at Thirty Eight Street.  Our fab hosts kicked off this month’s contest with geometric themed pieces of their own.  Be sure to check out Lynn’s console table furniture flip and Carrie’s cabinet flip.  If you are a blogger and you are interested in participating in future contests, please send an email to info@fabfurnitureflippincontest.com.

Geometric kids art table

My little toddler’s art table is knock off of an art table I found while browsing Pottery Barn Kids.  The table retails for $349.  With taxes and shipping, I was able to create my version for a quarter of the price.  The table is 50.5” long, 27.5” wide and 24” tall.

Pottery Barn Kids Art Table

The following video shows the art table paper roll in action:

Disclosure:  This post contains affliate links.  I received one quart of General Finishes Milk paint for free.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to build and finish the kids art table:

• General Finishes Milk Paint (Snow White)
• Pine Stain
• Gloss Varnish
• Acrylic craft paints (I used Delta Ceramcoat in the following colors)
  • Sunset
  • True turquoise
  • Ultra blue
• 1” painters tape
• Foam Brushes
• Kreg Jig (for joining boards)
• Kreg Right Angle Clamps
• 1.25” Coarse Kreg Pocket Hole Screws
• Japanese Handsaw and Guide
• Rockwell VersaCut Circular Saw with Track Guide
• Jigsaw (optional – for tapering legs)
• Drill/driver
• Orbital Sander equipped with sandpaper ranging from 100 grit to 220 grit
• Wood filler
• Wood glue
• Lumber (cut list)
  • A – 1x6x26″ (2)
  • B – 1x4x26” (4)
  • C – 1x4x50.5” (2)
  • D – 1x4x23.5” (4) – table legs
  • E – 1x4x24.5” (2)
  • F – 1x3x24.5” (2)
  • G – 1x3x28.5” (2)
  • I – 3/4” plywood at 26×35.5”
• Wooden dowel at 26” long (optional – for paper roll)

Building the Art Table

Learning SketchUp is definitely on my to-do list!

Update:  Hey guys, check out Ana White’s knockoff version of the art table with free SketchUp plans plus she has put together a nice video tutorial as well!

Step 1:  Cut the boards to the appropriate lengths.

I used my Japanese handsaw and guide to cut all the boards down to the appropriate lengths.  I used my mini-circular saw to rip the plywood into the appropriate dimension.

Tools for cutting the lumber and plywood

Step 2:  Create pocket holes

With my Kreg Jig and a drill, I created a ton of pocket holes for joining the boards together.

Kreg Jig K5 and pocket holes

Step 3:  Assemble the tabletop.

I created the table top by joining pieces A, B, C and I.

Joining boards A, B and C together

Tabletop assembly is complete

Step 4:  Taper the legs (optional)

I tapered the table’s legs (piece D) with a jigsaw.

Tapering table legs with a jigsaw

Step 5:  Drill hole in 2 table legs for paper roll (optional)

I drilled a hole 6” from the top of the leg for holding a paper roll.  Heh, I could have done a better job drilling the hole.

Drilling hole for paper roll

Step 6:  Assemble the table base

To create the base of the table, I first joined boards D (2) to F.

Joining boards D and F

For extra leg support, I attached board E.

Attaching board E

Finally, I joined each pair of legs with boards G.

The table base is complete

Step 7:  Attach the tabletop to the table base

I flipped the tabletop upside down and attached the based.

Attaching the table base to the tabletop

Finishing  the Art Table

After a good bit of sanding, I was ready for the really fun part:  painting!

Step 1:  Apply the base coat

I applied 3 coats of General Finishes Milk Paint in Snow White.  This was my first time using General Finishes Milk Paint and it won’t be the last.  The Milk Paint was very easy to apply and had very rich color.

General Finishes Milk Paint in Snow White

Step 2:  Stain the inside of the storage cubbies (optional)

I love two-toned finishes.  Especially when they are paired with the color white.  Midway through painting, I decided that’s a look I wanted in the art table and I am very pleased the results!

Storage cubbies stained with a pine finish

Step 3:  Tape off a geometric pattern

With 1” painters tape, I taped off the perimeter of the table top.  Then I applied a few strips of tape from one edge to another.  And finally, I applied smaller strips of tape.

Geometric pattern taped off

Step 4:  Paint the sections

I used 3 different colors of acrylic craft paint to fill in each section of tape.

Painting the sections

Step 5:  Seal with a varnish

For the final step, I sealed the table with 3 coats of gloss varnish.

The Finished Art Table

This art table is one of my favorite builds so far.  I love the geometric pattern, and I adore how the table is so bright and cheery.

DIY Geometric Kids Art Table

Art table with a paper roll

Geometric kids art table

Before and after – geometric kids art table

The post DIY Geometric Kids Art Table – September Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest Entry appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Auburn Football Cornhole Boards

Hello everyone!  I just finished my latest creation:  Auburn University themed cornhole boards!  It took a couple of weekends to finish and cost about $150 in tools and supplies to make (acquiring a 6 inch hole saw plus matching drill bit was about $50 of that total.)  I followed This Old House‘s tutorial on building a cornhole board, and in the following post I share the steps I took to create the cornhole boards!

Auburn themed cornhole boards

Disclosure:  This post contains affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to build the Auburn cornhole boards.  For a complete listing, check out This Old House’s tutorial on building a cornhole board.

• 6 inch diameter hole saw
• Hole saw arbor
• Silhouette Portrait (for creating stencils)
• half sheet of 1/2 inch plywood
• 4 – 2×4 boards 8 feet long
• 4 – 3/8 x 3 1/2 inch carriage bolts
• 4 – 3/8 inch washers
• 4 – 3/8 inch wing nuts
• Kreg Jig (for joining boards)
• Kreg Right Angle Clamps
• Japanese Hand saw and Guide (cutting 2×4 boards)
• Rockwell VersaCut Circular Saw with Track Guide (cross cutting plywood)
• Glidden Paint Team Colors (for the official shades of orange and blue)

Building the Cornhole Boards

Step 1:  Cut plywood into two 24×48 inch pieces

I used my VersaCut circular saw and its track guide to cut a sheet of plywood into 24 inch wide strips.

Cutting plywood with the Rockwell VersaCut

Step 2:  Cut the 2×4 boards

I used my handsaw to cut the 2×4 boards into 4 pieces at 21 inches long and 4 pieces at 12 inches long.

Step 3:  Assemble the frame

With my Kreg Jig, I created pocket hole joints to piece together the cornhole board frame.

Creating pocket holes with the Kreg Jig

I assembled the frame with the appropriate screws.  At this point I realized I made a poor selection with the 2×4 boards.  A couple of the boards were severely warped.  It increased the difficulty level for assembling the frame.  I had to use a lot clamps to fight the wood. (My personal favorite clamp when I use pocket hole joints is the Kreg right angle clamp.   I recommend owning two!)

Fighting warped wood

Cornhole board frames are complete!

Step 4:  Attach the plywood to the frame

I also used pocket hole joints to attach the sheet of plywood to the 2×4 frame.

Attaching plywood to the frame

Ready for the hole saw

Step 5:  Create a 6 inch hole

Up next, I created a 6 inch hole.  The center point of the circle was 12 inches from the side and 9 inches from the top.  I do not trust my jigsaw skills, so I purchased a 6 inch hole saw and a matching drill bit to attach the hole saw.  (I made a mistake here and purchased a bit that was too large for my drill.)

6 inch hole saw and required drill bit

The kickback with a large hole saw is no joke.  I did not have a very strong grip on my drill as I made contact with the plywood.  I lost control of the drill and the spinning saw went flying and hit my shin.  I thank God I was wearing a pair of jeans.  I’m pretty sure the injury (warning – blood) would require stitches otherwise.

Heh, so at this point I was at little intimidated with the hole saw.

Step 6:  Prep the boards for paint

I sanded the surface of the boards.  A few spots where the plywood and 2×4 frame met were not flush.  I love my orbital sander, but it is not very good at removing a lot of material.  So for this project I acquired a new tool:  a belt sander!  I purchased the Ryobi 3″ x 18″ belt sander.  (This tool would have been really nice to have while I was finishing my industrial factory cart coffee table or any project with edge to edge joints.)

Step 7:  Attach the legs

I followed The Old House tutorial for attaching the legs to the cornhole boards.

Painting the Cornhole Boards

Building the cornhole boards was easy.  Painting the boards was where all the real work took place!

Step 1:  Apply a base coat.

Glidden Paint at Home Depot have a Team Colors collection.   I purchased a quart of the Auburn blue and orange.  I used a nice quality paint brush to apply each color.

Base coat of paint drying

Step 2:  Create Auburn themed stencils

I imported images of the official Auburn logos into the Silhouette Studio software and created cut files for AU and tiger logos.  You can skip this step and download the cut files I created here:

• AU logo cut file
• Auburn tiger cut file
• “War Eagle” cut file

I used my Silhouette Portrait to cut the stencils out of contact paper.  I followed the Shanty sister’s tutorial on creating a stencil with contact paper to get the perfect cut setting.  I also followed the Silhouette School Blog’s tutorial for cutting  oversized stencils.

This was the the first project that made me really wish I owned the Silhouette Cameo (the larger of the two machines.)

Auburn Tiger stencils with the Silhouette

Step 3:  Stencil in the logos

I applied the contact paper stencils to the boards and used a stencil brush to paint in the space.  This was by far the most tedious step of the whole project.   I used Delta Ceramcoat in Ultra Blue and Orange Soda to paint the Auburn tiger logo.

Stenciling in the AU logo

Stenciling in the Auburn Tiger and War Eagle

Once the stenciling was over, I needed to apply some touch up paint in a few spots.

Stencil time is over! Yay!

Step 4:  Apply a clear coat

For the final step, I applied a few layers of clear coat to protect the finish.  I have not mastered the art of avoiding brush marks, so I was a bit disappointed with my clear coat job.

The Completed Cornhole Boards

DIY Cornhole Board

Auburn themed cornhole boards

Homemade cornhole boards

The post DIY Cornhole Board appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Rustic X Coffee Table

In recent weeks, my sister has expressed great interest in woodworking.  She sent me a picture of a coffee table someone built following Ana White’s plans for the Rustic X Coffee Table.  She wanted to build it too!  We spent a weekend constructing the coffee table, and in this post, I’ll share the steps we took to build it.

(For sneak peaks on upcoming projects follow me on Facebook and Instagram!)

Disclosure:  This post contains affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies we gathered to create the Rustic X Coffee table.  Check out Ana White’s plan for a more detailed listing.

• Kreg Jig (for joining boards)
• Kreg Right Angle Clamps
• Japanese Hand saw and Guide
• Rockwell VersaCut Circular Saw
• Rockwell JawHorse
• Charles Neil Pre-Color Conditioner – To prevent blotching
• Minwax Wood Finish (Jacobean 2750)
• Vermont Natural Coatings PolyWhey (Satin)

Building the Coffee Table

The Rustic X Coffee table complements plans Ana created for the Rustic X Console table.  The matching console table is a project I built a few years ago.  You can check out the build details for that project here.

Rustic X Console

Step 1:  Cut the boards to the appropriate lengths.

My sister and I used my Japanese handsaw and guide to cut the 2×2, 2×4 and 2×6 boards.  It was a nice arm workout.

My sister cutting boards with a Japanese handsaw

I used my mini circular saw to cut the 1×12 board into the appropriate sized portion.  I really like the weight of this saw.  I splurged and purchased the kit.  The kit includes a track guide which makes accurate cuts pretty easy!  The only negative to this saw is it cannot cut 2x or thicker materials.

Rockwell VersaCut Circular Saw

Step 2:  Drill pocket holes

Next up, we used my Kreg Jig and created a ton of pocket holes.  I own the Kreg K5 Pocket Hole Jig and the Kreg Jig Master System.  Between the two, the K5 is my favorite model because it requires less effort to adjust the settings.

Drilling pocket holes with the Kreg K5

Step 3:  Assemble the frame

We had a really poor selection of 2×2 boards to choose from.  Twisted or bowed, take your pick!  Clamps were an absolute must for this project.  My Kreg right angle clamp was incredibly helpful for forcing the boards into place.

Kreg right angle clamp in use

First couple of boards joined together

One side of the coffee table frame complete

Coffee table frame is almost complete

We decided to drop the x’s because our boards were so warped, and it was a battle not worth fighting.

Step 4:  Install the bottom shelf

We joined two 1×12 boards together to form the bottom shelf of the table.  Installing the shelf was the trickest step in the whole project (thanks to the super warped wood).  We used lots of clamping and mallet to get everything aligned and in place.

Bottom shelf installed

 Step 5:  Assemble the table top

We used pocket hole joints planking 2×6 boards together to form the coffee table’s top.

Assembling the coffee table’s top

Step 6:  Attach the coffee table top to the frame

Finally, we screwed the table’s top the the frame.

The table is assembled

Finishing the Coffee Table

Step 1:  Apply pre-stain conditioner.

Before applying the stain, we coated the table with Charles Neil Pre-Color Conditioner to prevent blotching.

Applying pre-color conditioner

Step 2:  Apply the stain

Next up, we added one coat of Minwax Wood Finish in Jacobean.  Unfortunately, my sister was disappointed with the color once we applied it on the table.  The stain was a darker color than she was expecting.

Staining the coffee table with Minwax Wood Finish

Step 3:  Seal the table

We sealed the coffee table with a couple layers of Vermont Natural Coatings PolyWhey.

Vermont Natural Coatings PolyWhey

My helper sanding between coats

The table is sealed

The Finished Coffee Table

My sister really enjoyed building the coffee table.  I think she has found a new hobby in woodworking.  She is already plotting her next project!

The coffee table is complete

Rustic X Coffee table (but without the x)

Coffee table ready for it’s new home

The post DIY Rustic X Coffee Table (Plans by Ana White) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

Ashley Makes: DIY Industrial Factory Cart Coffee Table

I am so excited to share with you my latest project, an industrial factory cart coffee table!  The Shanty 2 Chic sisters teamed up with the Rogue Engineer to put together plans for this table.  When I came across their post it was love at first sight!  The project is pretty easy to build, and in this post I will go over the steps I took to create the coffee table.

Disclosure:  This post contains affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to create the industrial factory cart coffee table.  Check out the Rogue Engineer’s plan for a more detailed listing.

• Kreg Jig (for joining boards)
• Kreg Right Angle Clamps
• Japanese Hand saw and Guide
• Rockwell JawHorse
• 8 in. Swivel Steel Caster (4)
• Charles Neil Pre-Color Conditioner – To prevent blotching
• ECOS Paints Woodshield Stain (British Chesnut) – There is seriously no smell with this stuff.
• ECOS Paints WoodShield Varnish (Satin)

Building the Coffee Table

Step 1:  Cut the boards to the appropriate length.

My husband and I cut all the boards with our Japanese handsaw.  Cutting through the 2×8 boards was quite the workout!

Japanese handsaw and saw guide

Boards cut the appropriate lengths

Step 2:  Drill pocket holes.

Next up, we used our Kreg Jig and created a ton of pocket holes.

Kreg Jig K5

Step 3:  Assemble the top.

We screwed the 2×8 boards together to create the top of coffee table.  We made sure the wood rings alternated directions to prevent the table top from bowing.

Alternating wood ring direction

Step 4:  Attach the sides.

We framed the coffee table top with 2×6 boards.  The Kreg right angle clamp was really useful at this step.

Adding the coffee table’s frame

Step 5:  Install supports

Next, we installed the coffee table supports!  For this step, the mallet was our best friend.   We had to squeeze our 2×4 supports inside of the coffee table’s frame.

Our little helper

Table supports are installed

This table is heavy and ready for sanding!

Step 6: Lots of sanding

We spent a good part of the day sanding the table.  We cycled through grits 40, 60, 80, 100, 150 and 220.

It’s sanding day

Finishing the Coffee Table

Step 1:  Apply pre-stain conditioner.

Before applying the stain, I coated the table with Charles Neil Pre-Color Conditioner to prevent blotching.

Charles Neil Pre-Color Conditioner

Step 2:  Apply the stain

Next up, I applied one coat of ECOS Paint Woodshield Stain in British Chesnut.  I love the results with Woodshield.   This is my fourth project using the stain. (Check out my homemade growth chart, vintage step stool, and dining room bench to see the stain in different colors.)

Table stained with ECOS Paints WoodShield in British Chesnut

Unfortunately, my quart of Spiced Pecan was a casualty in the project.  I had planned on using this color for the project. Just as I was about to get started staining,  I tripped and spilled the entired quart onto my patio.  Oh the horror!  I didn’t have a chance to use that color on a project.  We were able to clean up the mess with the pressure washer and little bit of Simple Green cleaner.

My precious Spiced Pecan wasted

Step 3:  Seal the table

I sealed the coffee table with a few layers of ECOS Paint WoodShield Satin Varnish.

Step 4:  Spray paint the hardware black

I spray painted the brackets, screws and caster wheels with Rust-Oleum Universal Flat Black spray paint.

The hardware’s original appearance

Hardware spray painted black

Step 5:  Install the hardware

Finally, I installed the corner brackets and the caster wheels.  I did need to purchase special driver bits to screw in the hex screws.

Dewalt Magnetic Nut Bits

Attaching the corner brackets

Attaching the caster wheels

The Finished Coffee Table

I am so in love with my new coffee table. It the perfect addition to my living room.  My only regret is that I did not purchase a pair of caster wheels with brakes. The little guy in the house enjoys rolling the table around!

I think he loves this table as much as I do

My new coffee table

The table from a distance (I could use a rug in this room)

Table up close

the perfect pairing with my sofas

The post DIY Industrial Factory Cart Coffee Table (Plans by Rogue Engineer) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

Ashley Makes: DIY Providence Bench

Hooray! I recently finished building a dining room bench.  For this project, I used the Providence Bench plans by Ana White.   I started this project in May, and two months later it is finally complete!  In this post I’ll share details on how I built the Providence Bench. 

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to build the Providence bench.  Check out Ana White’s plan for a more detailed listing.

• Kreg Jig (for joining boards)
• Kreg Right Angle Clamps
• Japanese Hand saw and Guide
• Nobex Champion Miter Saw
• Rockwell JawHorse
• Charles Neil Pre-Color Conditioner – To prevent blotching
• ECOS Paint Woodshield Stain (Pine Needles) – There is seriously  no smell with this stuff.
• ECOS Paint WoodShield Varnish (Satin) – There is a tiny odor when you first open the can, but it’s nothing compared to your traditional varnishes.

Building the Providence Bench

Step 1:  Cut the boards to the appropriate length.

I made all the straight cuts with my Japanese handsaw, and I used my Nobex Champion Miter Saw to create the angle cuts.

Nobex Champion Miter Saw

Step 2:  Drill pocket holes.

Next up, I used my Kreg Jig and created a ton of pocket holes.

Boards cut the appropriate lengths with pocket holes

Step 3:  Assemble the legs.

I followed Ana’s plans and assembled the bench legs.

Assembling the legs

Kreg Right Angle clamps being put to good use

The legs are assembled!

Step 4:  Add the stretchers.

I connected the two legs with the stretchers.

Stretcher one screwed together

Kreg Right angle clamps being put to good use again!

Stretcher assembly complete!

Step 5:  Add the cross supports

Next up, I added the bench’s cross supports.  At this point I realized I cut the board for the cross support a few millimeters short.  This resulted in a tiny gap, but it should only be noticeable if you are looking for a flaw.

Cross supports installed

Step 6:  Add the bench top

I used by Kreg Jig to join 4 – 2×4 boards together creating the bench’s top.  Unfortunately, the 2×4 boards I selected were pretty warped.  Once I screwed the bench top to the bottom, all four legs of the bench’s bottom where no longer touching the ground at once.  In fact, I had a very noticeable gap!

To remedy the situation, I used Nobex Champion Miter Saw to cut a tiny slice of wood.  I glued and nailed the slice to the bottom of one of the legs and the bench no longer wobbled.

Creating the bench top

Attaching bench top to bottom

Glue + nails for homemade shim

Finishing the Providence Bench

With the bench assembled, it was time to apply the finish!

Ready to be stained and painted

Step 1:  Apply pre-stain conditioner

Before applying the stain, I coated the top of the bench with Charles Neil Pre-Color Conditioner to prevent blotching.

Charles Neil Pre-Color Conditioner

Step 2:  Apply stain

Next up, I added one coat of ECOS Paint Woodshield Stain in Pine Needles.  I am really pleased with the results of Woodshield.   This is my third project using the stain. (Check out my homemade growth chart and vintage step stool to see the stain in different colors.)

ECOS Paint Woodshield in Pine Needles

Woodshield stain applied

Step 3:  Prime and paint the bench base

I love two toned furniture and I wanted the look for this bench.  I used Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch Primer and White Semi-Gloss paint to paint the base of the bench.

If I had to do this all over again, I would paint the base and stain the top before attaching the two together.  It is a lesson learned.

Rust-Oleum Primer and Gloss paint

Base primed (I seriously regretted using gray primer.)

Painting the bench base

Step 4:  Seal the bench

In the final step, I applied a few layers of ECOS Paint WoodShield Satin Varnish.

The Finished Providence Bench

I am really happy with how the bench turned out!  It is pretty sturdy and makes for a nice addition to the dining room!

DIY Providence Bench

The post DIY Providence Bench (Plans by Ana White) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

Ashley Makes: DIY Minecraft Sword

My little sister loves Minecraft.  She also loves handmade gifts from her big sister.  For her birthday present, I made a Minecraft sword.  The sword complements the wooden Minecraft torches I made a few months ago.  You can check out the tutorial here.  In this post,  I’ll share steps for creating a sword of your own from a 1×12 board!

(For sneak peaks on upcoming projects follow me on Facebook and Instagram!)

Disclosure: This posts contains affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to create the sword:

• 1×12 board 24 inches long
• Graphing paper
• Sander
• Ruler
• Scroll saw
• Painters tape
• Acrylic Craft Paints (I used Delta Ceramcoat paints)
  • Brown Iron Oxide
  • Bambi Brown
  • Burnt Umber
  • Raw Sienna
  • North Sea
  • Mermaid Blue
  • Tahiti Blue
  • Midnight Blue
• Daddy Van’s Beeswax (for sealing the project)
• Cotton Terry Cloth Applicators

Making the Sword

Step 1:  Create sword pattern

With a straight edge, a pen and an image of the Minecraft sword, I created a pattern on graphing paper.   Each pixel is 1 inch by 1 inch.  The sword is 11 inches wide and about 22 inches long.

I scanned my pattern and it’s available here:

• Part 1
• Part 2
• Part 3

Minecraft sword pattern

Sword pattern cut out

Step 2:  Trace sword pattern onto 1×12 board

Next, I traced the sword outline onto the 1×12 board.

Sword outline traced onto 1×12 board

Step 3:  Cut out sword shape

I used my scroll saw to cut out the shape of the sword.  I think a band saw would have been a more appropriate tool, but alas, I do not own one.  Cutting straight lines with a scroll saw was a bit challenging because of blade drift.  However, this was an excellent project for gaining experience with cutting along a line.

Removed excess wood with jig saw

Sword cut out

Sword cut out

Step 4:  Sand the sword

I used my orbital sander to sand the sword.  I took a few shortcuts and it shows, so make sure you take your time and do a thorough job sanding.

Step 5:  Draw grid lines on the sword

Next up, I drew one inch grid lines on each side of the sword.

Grid lines

Step 6:  Paint the pixels

I painted each cell with acrylic paint.  This part was a bit tedious, especially when I tried to be neat and tape off the cells.  I used the following colors from Delta Ceramcoat:

• Brown Iron Oxide
• Bambi Brown
• Burnt Umber
• Raw Sienna
• North Sea
• Mermaid Blue
• Tahiti Blue
• Midnight Blue

Painting in progress

One side complete

Step 7:  Seal the project

I used Daddy Van’s Beeswax to seal the sword.

The Finished Sword

I am pretty pleased with how the sword turned out.  The wood is heavier than I thought.  Swinging requires a bit of effort.

The finished Minecraft diamond sword

DIY Minecraft sword

The post DIY Minecraft Sword (Wooden Sword Tutorial) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

Ashley Makes: DIY Busy Board

I found a really cool project while browsing Pinterest:  a busy board  (the busy board by Millionayres in particular)! I have never seen such a thing, but the moment I saw it I knew I had to make it.   I made use of some scrap 1×12 boards, spray painted it black and yellow, and purchased a variety of items to attach to the board.   In this post, I’ll share the steps I took for creating a busy board for our busy little boy!

Disclosure:  This post contains some affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to make the busy board:

• 2 – 1×12 boards 36 inches long
• Kreg Jig (for joining the two boards)
• Silhouette (for creating the caution stencil)
• Yellow spray paint
• Black spray paint
• Painters tape
• Contact paper (material used to creating the Silhouette stencil)
• Daddy Van’s Beeswax (for sealing the project)
• Cotton Terry Cloth Applicators
• OOK ReadyNail Large Sawtooth Hanger
• OOK Picture Hangers

Busy Items

• Door Chain
• Locking Hasp
• Spring Door stop
• Bells
• Caster wheel

Creating the Busy Board

Step 1:  Join the 1×12 boards.

I wanted to make use of lumber I had on hand, so for my board I used my Kreg Jig to join two 36″ long 1×12 boards.

1×12 Boards joined together with Kreg Jig pocket holes

Step 2:  Spray paint the with base color.

Next, I spray painted the board with yellow spray paint.

Spray painted the board yellow

Step 3:  Create caution stencil.

I created a caution stencil with the message, “CAUTION:  CHILD AT PLAY” from my Silhouette and Contact paper.   I followed the Shanty sister’s tutorial on creating a stencil with Contact paper to get the perfect cut setting on my Silhouette.  You can download my Silhouette cut file here.

Step 4:  Apply caution stencil and painters tape.

I applied the caution stencil to the board and used painters tape to tape off diagonal stripes.

Taped and ready for black paint

Step 5:  Spray paint with secondary color.

Next, I spray painted the entire board with black spray paint.  Once I removed the stickers I was a little disappointed to notice a few areas where the stencil and tape were not completely stuck to the board.  This resulted in a few fuzzy spots.  Fortunately, if you stand from a distance the flaw is not noticeable.

Spray painted the board with black paint

Stencil and painters tape removed

Step 6:  Seal the board.

I used Daddy Van’s Beeswax to apply a protective coat on the board.  This is my first project using beeswax.  Daddy Van’s was really easy to apply and I am quite pleased with the results.   It gets bonus points for no smelly fumes and easy clean up!

Daddy Van’s Furniture Polish

Beeswax applied

Step 7:  Install the busy hardware.

Now, here’s the fun part:  installing the hardware!  I made a trip to the hardware store and I purchased the following busy little items:

• Door Chain
• Locking Hasp
• Spring Door stop
• Bells
• Caster wheel

I also made a trip to Michael’s to purchase some bells.  I strung the bells on cord and attached it to the board as well.

If you use a door stop, secure the tip with glue.

Locks and a caster wheel

Bells from Michael’s

Step 8:  Hang the board!

In hindsight, I should have installed the picture framing hardware prior to installing the busy hardware.  It would have made this step a little easier.   I installed two large OOK Sawtooth hangers on the back of the board.  I then installed two 20 pound OOK Picture hangers on my drywall.

OOK Picture Hanging Hardware

If you have never used this picture hanging system, I recommend you check it out.  It made this step a breeze!

Busy Board prior to hanging

Busy Board prior to hanging

The Finished Busy Board

The Busy Board was an instant hit for my little guy.  He is most attracted to the spring door stop and caster wheels.  I am pretty happy with how the project turned out as well!  I do have a few more spots that I’d like to fill in, perhaps with a mirror and a push light.

The finished busy board

The finished busy board

The kid approves

The post DIY Busy Board appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.