getbuilding2015 Archives - Handmade with Ashley

DIY Geometric Kids Art Table – September Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest Entry

Ashley — Mon, 28 Sep 2015 07:24:41 +0000

DIY Geometric Kids Art Table

My little toddler has discovered the wonderful world of coloring. He adores scribbling with crayons and markers. I wanted to create a bright and colorful space to encourage his artistic abilities. I wanted to build him an art table! Today I will share with you how I built my little toddler’s art table and how I applied its finish. However, before I dive into the steps, I want to introduce you to the Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest!

(For sneak peeks on upcoming projects follow me on Facebook and Instagram!)

Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest

The Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest is a monthly furniture decorating contest. Each month there is a new theme and a new sponsor. September’s theme is geometry, and September’s sponsor is General Finishes!

General Finishes

General Finishes carries a nice variety of water based and oil based finishes. I think they are best known for their gel stains. (I have been wanting to try their gel stain for quite some time now.) Each participant received one quart of a General Finishes product, and the winner will receive a full case of General Finishes products. This post is my first entry in the Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest, and I received one quart of Milk Paint from General Finishes.

Our Fab Hosts

September’s fab hosts are Lynn from Fern Avenue and Carrie at Thirty Eight Street. Our fab hosts kicked off this month’s contest with geometric themed pieces of their own. Be sure to check out Lynn’s console table furniture flip and Carrie’s cabinet flip. If you are a blogger and you are interested in participating in future contests, please send an email to info@fabfurnitureflippincontest.com.

Geometric kids art table

My little toddler’s art table is knock off of an art table I found while browsing Pottery Barn Kids. The table retails for $349. With taxes and shipping, I was able to create my version for a quarter of the price. The table is 50.5” long, 27.5” wide and 24” tall.

Pottery Barn Kids Art Table

The following video shows the art table paper roll in action:

Disclosure: This post contains affliate links. I received one quart of General Finishes Milk paint for free.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to build and finish the kids art table:

General Finishes Milk Paint (Snow White)
Pine Stain
Gloss Varnish
Acrylic craft paints (I used Delta Ceramcoat in the following colors)
- Sunset
- True turquoise
- Ultra blue
1” painters tape
Foam Brushes
Kreg Jig (for joining boards)
Kreg Right Angle Clamps
1.25” Coarse Kreg Pocket Hole Screws
Japanese Handsaw and Guide
Rockwell VersaCut Circular Saw with Track Guide
Jigsaw (optional – for tapering legs)
Drill/driver
Orbital Sander equipped with sandpaper ranging from 100 grit to 220 grit
Wood filler
Wood glue
Lumber (cut list)
- A – 1x6x26″ (2)
- B – 1x4x26” (4)
- C – 1x4x50.5” (2)
- D – 1x4x23.5” (4) – table legs
- E – 1x4x24.5” (2)
- F – 1x3x24.5” (2)
- G – 1x3x28.5” (2)
- I – 3/4” plywood at 26×35.5”
Wooden dowel at 26” long (optional – for paper roll)

Building the Art Table

Learning SketchUp is definitely on my to-do list!

Update: Hey guys, check out Ana White’s knockoff version of the art table with free SketchUp plans plus she has put together a nice video tutorial as well!

Step 1: Cut the boards to the appropriate lengths.

I used my Japanese handsaw and guide to cut all the boards down to the appropriate lengths. I used my mini-circular saw to rip the plywood into the appropriate dimension.

Tools for cutting the lumber and plywood

Step 2: Create pocket holes

With my Kreg Jig and a drill, I created a ton of pocket holes for joining the boards together.

Kreg Jig K5 and pocket holes

Step 3: Assemble the tabletop.

I created the table top by joining pieces A, B, C and I.

Joining boards A, B and C together

Tabletop assembly is complete

Step 4: Taper the legs (optional)

I tapered the table’s legs (piece D) with a jigsaw.

Tapering table legs with a jigsaw

Step 5: Drill hole in 2 table legs for paper roll (optional)

I drilled a hole 6” from the top of the leg for holding a paper roll. Heh, I could have done a better job drilling the hole.

Drilling hole for paper roll

Step 6: Assemble the table base

To create the base of the table, I first joined boards D (2) to F.

Joining boards D and F

For extra leg support, I attached board E.

Attaching board E

Finally, I joined each pair of legs with boards G.

The table base is complete

Step 7: Attach the tabletop to the table base

I flipped the tabletop upside down and attached the based.

Attaching the table base to the tabletop

Finishing the Art Table

After a good bit of sanding, I was ready for the really fun part: painting!

Step 1: Apply the base coat

I applied 3 coats of General Finishes Milk Paint in Snow White. This was my first time using General Finishes Milk Paint and it won’t be the last. The Milk Paint was very easy to apply and had very rich color.

General Finishes Milk Paint in Snow White

Step 2: Stain the inside of the storage cubbies (optional)

I love two-toned finishes. Especially when they are paired with the color white. Midway through painting, I decided that’s a look I wanted in the art table and I am very pleased the results!

Storage cubbies stained with a pine finish

Step 3: Tape off a geometric pattern

With 1” painters tape, I taped off the perimeter of the table top. Then I applied a few strips of tape from one edge to another. And finally, I applied smaller strips of tape.

Geometric pattern taped off

Step 4: Paint the sections

I used 3 different colors of acrylic craft paint to fill in each section of tape.

Painting the sections

Step 5: Seal with a varnish

For the final step, I sealed the table with 3 coats of gloss varnish.

The Finished Art Table

This art table is one of my favorite builds so far. I love the geometric pattern, and I adore how the table is so bright and cheery.

DIY Geometric Kids Art Table

Art table with a paper roll

Geometric kids art table

Before and after – geometric kids art table

The post DIY Geometric Kids Art Table – September Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest Entry appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Rustic X Coffee Table (Plans by Ana White)

Ashley — Mon, 31 Aug 2015 03:18:16 +0000

DIY Rustic X Coffee Table

In recent weeks, my sister has expressed great interest in woodworking. She sent me a picture of a coffee table someone built following Ana White’s plans for the Rustic X Coffee Table. She wanted to build it too! We spent a weekend constructing the coffee table, and in this post, I’ll share the steps we took to build it.

(For sneak peaks on upcoming projects follow me on Facebook and Instagram!)

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies we gathered to create the Rustic X Coffee table. Check out Ana White’s plan for a more detailed listing.

Kreg Jig (for joining boards)
Kreg Right Angle Clamps
Japanese Hand saw and Guide
Rockwell VersaCut Circular Saw
Rockwell JawHorse
Charles Neil Pre-Color Conditioner – To prevent blotching
Minwax Wood Finish (Jacobean 2750)
Vermont Natural Coatings PolyWhey (Satin)

Building the Coffee Table

The Rustic X Coffee table complements plans Ana created for the Rustic X Console table. The matching console table is a project I built a few years ago. You can check out the build details for that project here.

Rustic X Console

Step 1: Cut the boards to the appropriate lengths.

My sister and I used my Japanese handsaw and guide to cut the 2×2, 2×4 and 2×6 boards. It was a nice arm workout.

My sister cutting boards with a Japanese handsaw

I used my mini circular saw to cut the 1×12 board into the appropriate sized portion. I really like the weight of this saw. I splurged and purchased the kit. The kit includes a track guide which makes accurate cuts pretty easy! The only negative to this saw is it cannot cut 2x or thicker materials.

Rockwell VersaCut Circular Saw

Step 2: Drill pocket holes

Next up, we used my Kreg Jig and created a ton of pocket holes. I own the Kreg K5 Pocket Hole Jig and the Kreg Jig Master System. Between the two, the K5 is my favorite model because it requires less effort to adjust the settings.

Drilling pocket holes with the Kreg K5

Step 3: Assemble the frame

We had a really poor selection of 2×2 boards to choose from. Twisted or bowed, take your pick! Clamps were an absolute must for this project. My Kreg right angle clamp was incredibly helpful for forcing the boards into place.

Kreg right angle clamp in use

First couple of boards joined together

One side of the coffee table frame complete

Coffee table frame is almost complete

We decided to drop the x’s because our boards were so warped, and it was a battle not worth fighting.

Step 4: Install the bottom shelf

We joined two 1×12 boards together to form the bottom shelf of the table. Installing the shelf was the trickest step in the whole project (thanks to the super warped wood). We used lots of clamping and mallet to get everything aligned and in place.

Bottom shelf installed

Step 5: Assemble the table top

We used pocket hole joints planking 2×6 boards together to form the coffee table’s top.

Assembling the coffee table’s top

Step 6: Attach the coffee table top to the frame

Finally, we screwed the table’s top the the frame.

The table is assembled

Finishing the Coffee Table

Step 1: Apply pre-stain conditioner.

Before applying the stain, we coated the table with Charles Neil Pre-Color Conditioner to prevent blotching.

Applying pre-color conditioner

Step 2: Apply the stain

Next up, we added one coat of Minwax Wood Finish in Jacobean. Unfortunately, my sister was disappointed with the color once we applied it on the table. The stain was a darker color than she was expecting.

Staining the coffee table with Minwax Wood Finish

Step 3: Seal the table

We sealed the coffee table with a couple layers of Vermont Natural Coatings PolyWhey.

Vermont Natural Coatings PolyWhey

My helper sanding between coats

The table is sealed

The Finished Coffee Table

My sister really enjoyed building the coffee table. I think she has found a new hobby in woodworking. She is already plotting her next project!

The coffee table is complete

Rustic X Coffee table (but without the x)

Coffee table ready for it’s new home

The post DIY Rustic X Coffee Table (Plans by Ana White) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Industrial Factory Cart Coffee Table (Plans by Rogue Engineer)

Ashley — Thu, 27 Aug 2015 03:32:17 +0000

Ashley Makes: DIY Industrial Factory Cart Coffee Table

I am so excited to share with you my latest project, an industrial factory cart coffee table! The Shanty 2 Chic sisters teamed up with the Rogue Engineer to put together plans for this table. When I came across their post it was love at first sight! The project is pretty easy to build, and in this post I will go over the steps I took to create the coffee table.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to create the industrial factory cart coffee table. Check out the Rogue Engineer’s plan for a more detailed listing.

Kreg Jig (for joining boards)
Kreg Right Angle Clamps
Japanese Hand saw and Guide
Rockwell JawHorse
8 in. Swivel Steel Caster (4)
Charles Neil Pre-Color Conditioner – To prevent blotching
ECOS Paints Woodshield Stain (British Chesnut) – There is seriously no smell with this stuff.
ECOS Paints WoodShield Varnish (Satin)

Building the Coffee Table

Step 1: Cut the boards to the appropriate length.

My husband and I cut all the boards with our Japanese handsaw. Cutting through the 2×8 boards was quite the workout!

Japanese handsaw and saw guide

Boards cut the appropriate lengths

Step 2: Drill pocket holes.

Next up, we used our Kreg Jig and created a ton of pocket holes.

Kreg Jig K5

Step 3: Assemble the top.

We screwed the 2×8 boards together to create the top of coffee table. We made sure the wood rings alternated directions to prevent the table top from bowing.

Alternating wood ring direction

Step 4: Attach the sides.

We framed the coffee table top with 2×6 boards. The Kreg right angle clamp was really useful at this step.

Adding the coffee table’s frame

Step 5: Install supports

Next, we installed the coffee table supports! For this step, the mallet was our best friend. We had to squeeze our 2×4 supports inside of the coffee table’s frame.

Our little helper

Table supports are installed

This table is heavy and ready for sanding!

Step 6: Lots of sanding

We spent a good part of the day sanding the table. We cycled through grits 40, 60, 80, 100, 150 and 220.

It’s sanding day

Finishing the Coffee Table

Step 1: Apply pre-stain conditioner.

Before applying the stain, I coated the table with Charles Neil Pre-Color Conditioner to prevent blotching.

Charles Neil Pre-Color Conditioner

Step 2: Apply the stain

Next up, I applied one coat of ECOS Paint Woodshield Stain in British Chesnut. I love the results with Woodshield. This is my fourth project using the stain. (Check out my homemade growth chart, vintage step stool, and dining room bench to see the stain in different colors.)

Table stained with ECOS Paints WoodShield in British Chesnut

Unfortunately, my quart of Spiced Pecan was a casualty in the project. I had planned on using this color for the project. Just as I was about to get started staining, I tripped and spilled the entired quart onto my patio. Oh the horror! I didn’t have a chance to use that color on a project. We were able to clean up the mess with the pressure washer and little bit of Simple Green cleaner.

My precious Spiced Pecan wasted

Step 3: Seal the table

I sealed the coffee table with a few layers of ECOS Paint WoodShield Satin Varnish.

Step 4: Spray paint the hardware black

I spray painted the brackets, screws and caster wheels with Rust-Oleum Universal Flat Black spray paint.

The hardware’s original appearance

Hardware spray painted black

Step 5: Install the hardware

Finally, I installed the corner brackets and the caster wheels. I did need to purchase special driver bits to screw in the hex screws.

Dewalt Magnetic Nut Bits

Attaching the corner brackets

Attaching the caster wheels

The Finished Coffee Table

I am so in love with my new coffee table. It the perfect addition to my living room. My only regret is that I did not purchase a pair of caster wheels with brakes. The little guy in the house enjoys rolling the table around!

I think he loves this table as much as I do

My new coffee table

The table from a distance (I could use a rug in this room)

Table up close

the perfect pairing with my sofas

The post DIY Industrial Factory Cart Coffee Table (Plans by Rogue Engineer) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Providence Bench (Plans by Ana White)

Ashley — Thu, 09 Jul 2015 04:05:49 +0000

Ashley Makes: DIY Providence Bench

Hooray! I recently finished building a dining room bench. For this project, I used the Providence Bench plans by Ana White. I started this project in May, and two months later it is finally complete! In this post I’ll share details on how I built the Providence Bench.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to build the Providence bench. Check out Ana White’s plan for a more detailed listing.

Kreg Jig (for joining boards)
Kreg Right Angle Clamps
Japanese Hand saw and Guide
Nobex Champion Miter Saw
Rockwell JawHorse
Charles Neil Pre-Color Conditioner – To prevent blotching
ECOS Paint Woodshield Stain (Pine Needles) – There is seriously no smell with this stuff.
ECOS Paint WoodShield Varnish (Satin) – There is a tiny odor when you first open the can, but it’s nothing compared to your traditional varnishes.

Building the Providence Bench

Step 1: Cut the boards to the appropriate length.

I made all the straight cuts with my Japanese handsaw, and I used my Nobex Champion Miter Saw to create the angle cuts.

Nobex Champion Miter Saw

Step 2: Drill pocket holes.

Next up, I used my Kreg Jig and created a ton of pocket holes.

Boards cut the appropriate lengths with pocket holes

Step 3: Assemble the legs.

I followed Ana’s plans and assembled the bench legs.

Assembling the legs

Kreg Right Angle clamps being put to good use

The legs are assembled!

Step 4: Add the stretchers.

I connected the two legs with the stretchers.

Stretcher one screwed together

Kreg Right angle clamps being put to good use again!

Stretcher assembly complete!

Step 5: Add the cross supports

Next up, I added the bench’s cross supports. At this point I realized I cut the board for the cross support a few millimeters short. This resulted in a tiny gap, but it should only be noticeable if you are looking for a flaw.

Cross supports installed

Step 6: Add the bench top

I used by Kreg Jig to join 4 – 2×4 boards together creating the bench’s top. Unfortunately, the 2×4 boards I selected were pretty warped. Once I screwed the bench top to the bottom, all four legs of the bench’s bottom where no longer touching the ground at once. In fact, I had a very noticeable gap!

To remedy the situation, I used Nobex Champion Miter Saw to cut a tiny slice of wood. I glued and nailed the slice to the bottom of one of the legs and the bench no longer wobbled.

Creating the bench top

Attaching bench top to bottom

Glue + nails for homemade shim

Finishing the Providence Bench

With the bench assembled, it was time to apply the finish!

Ready to be stained and painted

Step 1: Apply pre-stain conditioner

Before applying the stain, I coated the top of the bench with Charles Neil Pre-Color Conditioner to prevent blotching.

Charles Neil Pre-Color Conditioner

Step 2: Apply stain

Next up, I added one coat of ECOS Paint Woodshield Stain in Pine Needles. I am really pleased with the results of Woodshield. This is my third project using the stain. (Check out my homemade growth chart and vintage step stool to see the stain in different colors.)

ECOS Paint Woodshield in Pine Needles

Woodshield stain applied

Step 3: Prime and paint the bench base

I love two toned furniture and I wanted the look for this bench. I used Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch Primer and White Semi-Gloss paint to paint the base of the bench.

If I had to do this all over again, I would paint the base and stain the top before attaching the two together. It is a lesson learned.

Rust-Oleum Primer and Gloss paint

Base primed (I seriously regretted using gray primer.)

Painting the bench base

Step 4: Seal the bench

In the final step, I applied a few layers of ECOS Paint WoodShield Satin Varnish.

The Finished Providence Bench

I am really happy with how the bench turned out! It is pretty sturdy and makes for a nice addition to the dining room!

DIY Providence Bench

The post DIY Providence Bench (Plans by Ana White) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Busy Board

Ashley — Sat, 09 May 2015 13:22:07 +0000

Ashley Makes: DIY Busy Board

I found a really cool project while browsing Pinterest: a busy board (the busy board by Millionayres in particular)! I have never seen such a thing, but the moment I saw it I knew I had to make it. I made use of some scrap 1×12 boards, spray painted it black and yellow, and purchased a variety of items to attach to the board. In this post, I’ll share the steps I took for creating a busy board for our busy little boy!

Disclosure: This post contains some affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to make the busy board:

2 – 1×12 boards 36 inches long
Kreg Jig (for joining the two boards)
Silhouette (for creating the caution stencil)
Yellow spray paint
Black spray paint
Painters tape
Contact paper (material used to creating the Silhouette stencil)
Daddy Van’s Beeswax (for sealing the project)
Cotton Terry Cloth Applicators
OOK ReadyNail Large Sawtooth Hanger
OOK Picture Hangers

Busy Items

Creating the Busy Board

Step 1: Join the 1×12 boards.

I wanted to make use of lumber I had on hand, so for my board I used my Kreg Jig to join two 36″ long 1×12 boards.

1×12 Boards joined together with Kreg Jig pocket holes

Step 2: Spray paint the with base color.

Next, I spray painted the board with yellow spray paint.

Spray painted the board yellow

Step 3: Create caution stencil.

I created a caution stencil with the message, “CAUTION: CHILD AT PLAY” from my Silhouette and Contact paper. I followed the Shanty sister’s tutorial on creating a stencil with Contact paper to get the perfect cut setting on my Silhouette. You can download my Silhouette cut file here.

Step 4: Apply caution stencil and painters tape.

I applied the caution stencil to the board and used painters tape to tape off diagonal stripes.

Taped and ready for black paint

Step 5: Spray paint with secondary color.

Next, I spray painted the entire board with black spray paint. Once I removed the stickers I was a little disappointed to notice a few areas where the stencil and tape were not completely stuck to the board. This resulted in a few fuzzy spots. Fortunately, if you stand from a distance the flaw is not noticeable.

Spray painted the board with black paint

Stencil and painters tape removed

Step 6: Seal the board.

I used Daddy Van’s Beeswax to apply a protective coat on the board. This is my first project using beeswax. Daddy Van’s was really easy to apply and I am quite pleased with the results. It gets bonus points for no smelly fumes and easy clean up!

Daddy Van’s Furniture Polish

Beeswax applied

Step 7: Install the busy hardware.

Now, here’s the fun part: installing the hardware! I made a trip to the hardware store and I purchased the following busy little items:

Door Chain
Locking Hasp
Spring Door stop
Bells
Caster wheel

I also made a trip to Michael’s to purchase some bells. I strung the bells on cord and attached it to the board as well.

If you use a door stop, secure the tip with glue.

Locks and a caster wheel

Bells from Michael’s

Step 8: Hang the board!

In hindsight, I should have installed the picture framing hardware prior to installing the busy hardware. It would have made this step a little easier. I installed two large OOK Sawtooth hangers on the back of the board. I then installed two 20 pound OOK Picture hangers on my drywall.

OOK Picture Hanging Hardware

If you have never used this picture hanging system, I recommend you check it out. It made this step a breeze!

Busy Board prior to hanging

The Finished Busy Board

The Busy Board was an instant hit for my little guy. He is most attracted to the spring door stop and caster wheels. I am pretty happy with how the project turned out as well! I do have a few more spots that I’d like to fill in, perhaps with a mirror and a push light.

The finished busy board

The kid approves

The post DIY Busy Board appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Bowling Lane (Tutorial)

Ashley — Tue, 28 Apr 2015 03:01:00 +0000

Ashley Makes: DIY Bowling Lane

Scratch your bowling itch by building this miniature bowling lane made from scrap lumber. My husband and I were discussing how fun it will be to take our little boy bowling once he is old enough to enjoy it. From that conversation I got the idea of building a miniature bowling lane. I was also inspired by Ana White’s #GetBuilding2015 challenge to make use of the large pile of lumber stored in my garage. This bowling lane is a little shy of being a foot wide and 4 feet long. In this post, I’ll share steps for making a bowling lane of your own!

(For sneak peeks on upcoming projects follow me on Facebook and Instagram!)

Kids bowling lane

Disclosure: This post contains some affiliate links.

The Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to create the miniature bowling lane:

Bowling Pins

Bowling Lane

1 – 46″ long 1×12 board
2 – 46″ long 1×2 boards
2 – 9.75″ long 1×2 boards
1 – 9.75″ long 1×4 board
2 – 23″ long 1×4 boards
Kreg Jig (for joining boards)
Sander
Dremel (for rounding guard edges)
JigSaw (for rounding guard edges)
Wood Filler
Handsaw
Paint
Silhouette (for creating stencils for lane markers)

Decorating the Bowling Pins

I purchased 10 unfinished wooden bowling pins. The pins looked pretty bland. A little paint and washi tape made a big difference. The following steps describe how I decorated the pins.

Unfinished wooden bowling pins

Step 1: Paint the bowling pins white.

I spray painted the bowling pins white with a can of Rust-Oleum’s Painter’s Touch Paint+Primer.

Rust-Oleum Spray paint + Spray Paint Gun

Bowling pins lined up for painting

Step 2: Add washi tape to the neck of the bowling pin.

To give the bowling pins a nice pop of color, I added washi tape to the neck of the pins. I purchased my washi tape from cutetape.com. I used the following tapes:

Washi Tape from CuteTape

Step 3: Seal the washi tape with Mod Podge.

To ensure the tape would stay put, I applied a coat of Mod Podge (Matte Finish).

Step 4: Coat the pins with Triple Thick Gloss Glaze.

For the final step, I coated each pin with two layers of Triple Thick Gloss Glaze. This gave the pins a nice shiny and smooth finish.

Coating the bowling pins with Triple Thick Gloss Glaze

Building the Bowling Lane

Here’s how I pieced together the bowling lane.

Step 1: Cut the boards to the appropriate size.

I had a leftover 46″ long 1×12 board. I wanted the lane guards to run half the length of the bowling lane, so I cut 2 1×4 boards to length of 23 inches. The remaining 1×4 and 1×2 boards were cut to fit the 1×12 board.

Lumber

The final cuts were:

1 – 46″ long 1×12 board
2 – 46″ long 1×2 boards
2 – 9.75″ long 1×2 boards
1 – 9.75″ long 1×4 board
2 – 23″ long 1×4 boards

Step 2: Round the lane guard ends. (Optional)

Rounding the edges of the lane guards give the bowling lane a nice touch. I used a lid to trace a curve on one end of each of the 23″ 1×4 boards. I then used my jigsaw to cut the curve.

Jigsaw

Step 3: Add bottom trim.

I attached the 1×2 boards to the 1×12 board with some finishing nails and a hammer to form a box.

Nailing 1×2 boards to 1×12 board

Nailing the 1×2 boards to the 1×12 board

Bottom trim added

Step 4: Attach the lane guards.

Next, I used my Kreg Jig to create pocket holes for joining the pieces of the lane guard together. Once the 3 1×4 boards were joined, I then attached the lane guard to the 1×12 board.

Drilling pocket holes

Attaching pieces of the guard together

Attaching lane guards to bowling lane base

Step 5: Add wood filler and sand, sand sand.

I added wood filler to cover up the pocket holes and spent a good amount of time sanding down the rough edges.

Wood filler

Sanding the rounded edges with a Dremel

Sanding bowling lane

Step 6: Add paint.

I painted the bowling lane with Krylon Satin Sea Glass spray paint.

Ready for paint!

Step 7: Add washi tape. (Optional)

I wanted to tie in some of the colors from the bowling pins to the bowling lane. I wrapped perimeter of the lane with striped washi tape.

My little washi tape helper

Step 8: Add lane markers. (Optional)

For a nice final touch, I created stencils for lane arrows and markers for the bowling pin locations with the Silhouette editor. I used Contact paper to create the stencil. I followed the Shanty sister’s tutorial on creating a stencil with contact paper to get the perfect cut setting on my Silhouette. To complement the Sea Glass paint, I painted the lane markers with neon orange paint.

The Silhouette cut files are available here for download:

If you don’t own a Silhouette, I made the images available for download here:

Painting lane markers

Painting complete!

Close up on the lane arrows

Step 9: Seal the project!

The Completed Bowling Lane

The bowling lane was a really fun project. It has been a hit for my little guy, and the adults enjoy it too. To increase difficultly, use a smaller ball and have the bowler toss the ball from several feet away.

If you build the bowling lane, please leave a comment below or tag me on Instagram as @handmadewithashley or Twitter as @handmadewithash. I’d love to see your pictures!

Bowling pins in position

Reader Projects

My very first reader project from @sawdustandperfume!

Made this mini bowling ally for my niece who is visually impaired. She loves being able to get up close to see what she is doing. The lrg orange dots for the pins are very helpful for her to set it back up. Plans from @handmadewithashley

A photo posted by @sawdustandperfume on Aug 1, 2016 at 1:05pm PDT

Pin it!

DIY Bowling Lane

DIY Kids Bowling Lane

For sneak peaks on upcoming projects follow me on Facebook and Instagram!

The post DIY Bowling Lane (Tutorial) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Volcano Wooden Stacker

Ashley — Sat, 04 Apr 2015 21:33:12 +0000

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.

Ashley Makes: DIY Volcano Stacker

Using scrap lumber, I made a little volcano stacker. I created the stacker using a pattern from Erin Freuchtel-Dearing’s book, Natural Wooden Toys. The stacker was a really simple and easy project. I was able to complete the project within one afternoon using supplies I had on hand. Best of all, the toy seems to be a hit with the little guy!

The Tools and Supplies

Natural Wooden Toys by Erin Freuchtel-Dearing

The following is a list of a few tools and supplies I gathered to create the volcano stacker:

Natural Wooden Toys Book
Scroll Saw
Scrap Lumber
Acrylic Paint
Mod Podge
Dremel (for sanding the curves)

Making the Stacker

Step 1: Prepare the board.

I grabbed a 1×12 board from my scrap wood pile and gave it a really good sanding.

Prepping the scrap lumber

Step 2: Trace the pattern.

Using tracing paper, I made a copy of the volcano stacker pattern from the book. I then applied the pattern to my board.

Volcano stacker project in the book

Pattern applied to the board

Step 3: Cut out the shape and sand the edges.

Next, I used my scroll saw to cut out the four pieces that made up the volcano. I then sanded down the rough edges.

Scrolling complete

Step 4: Paint and seal the stacker.

I used acrylic craft paints and followed the same color scheme as the project in the book. Once the paint dried I applied Mod Podge (Matte Finish) to seal the stacker.

The Completed Stacker

Overall, I am pretty happy with the final project. However, next stacker there are two things I would do differently. One, I would do a better job sanding the edges. Sanding is my least favorite thing to do! In this project I took a shortcut there and it shows. Two, I would take my time painting and sealing. Once again, I took a shortcut and it shows. Now, my little boy could care less! He is really drawn to the toy and has not become bored of it yet. I am super excited about trying other projects from the book and experimenting with original designs of my own!

DIY Volcano Wooden Stacker

DIY Volcano Wooden Stacker separated

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DIY Minecraft Torch (Tutorial)

Ashley — Thu, 02 Apr 2015 04:32:41 +0000

How to make wooden Minecraft torches from a 2×2 board. The torches make awesome party favors for a Minecraft themed birthday party.

Ashley Makes: Minecraft Torch

My favorite 7 year old recently had a Minecraft themed birthday party. For party favors, I made Minecraft torches from a 2×2 board. Painting each pixel of the torch was an incredibly time consuming process. This is definitely not a project you want to procrastinate on. I would budget two hours per a torch. The torches are 1.5″ wide and 7.5″ tall. The scale for the pixels is 0.75 inches. In this post, I’ll share steps for making a few torches of your own!

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Disclosure: This post contains Amazon affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following is a list of the tools and supplies I gathered to create the torches:

2×2 board
Japanese Handsaw and Guide
Rockwell JawHorse (for holding the 2×2 while cutting)
A sander or a sanding block
A ruler
Acrylic Craft Paints (I used Delta Ceramcoat paints)
A good quality paint brush (A good brush helps keep the paint within the lines. I used one of my Da Vinci Red Sable brushes.)
Mod Podge (for sealing the paint)
Led Party Lights (optional)
1/2 drill bit (for creating a hole in the board to hold the led party lights)

I wanted consistent color among all of the torches, so I purchased specific colors instead of mixing colors. The colors I chose are not an exact match to the real torch, but close enough.

Making the Torch

Step 1: Cut the 2×2 Board.

A 2×2 board is not 2 inches by 2 inches. The real dimension of 2×2 board is 1.5 inches by 1.5 inches. This is why the pixel scale is 0.75 inches. The torches in Minecraft are 2 pixels wide and 10 pixels tall. So our torches are 1.5 inches wide and 7.5 inches tall.

Cut your 2×2 board to a length of 7.5 inches and give the board a good sanding.

Step 2: Draw a grid on the 2×2.

With your ruler, draw a grid on every side of the 2×2 board. Each cell represents a pixel and should be 0.75 inches by 0.75 inches. I found it easiest to first draw the grid lines on top and bottom sides of the 2×2 board.

Drawing grid lines

Grid lines completed

Step 3: Paint the pixels.

The bulk of the time on the project will be spent painting. If you are painting multiple torches, I recommend working like an assembly line and paint one color at a time. I recommend using a good quality brush. A good brush will make it easier to stay within the grid lines as you paint. Taping off the cells will give you nice and clean edges, but I found it very time consuming.

Da Vinci Size 4 Paint Brush

Here is the color scheme I used on my torches (column 1, column 2):

Acrylic Craft Paints

I painted rows 1 and 2 on the top of the torches, and I used Brown Iron Oxide to cover the bottom of the torches.

Tangerine paint added

White and yellow paint added

Painting the flame

Brown Iron Oxide paint added

Raw Sienna paint added

Step 4: Seal the torch.

Once the paint dried, apply a layer of Matte Mod Podge to seal the torches.

Step 5: Add a light. (Optional)

I thought turning the torches into a real source of light would be a neat upgrade. To do this, I purchased a bag of LED party lights. Each light is a little shy of being 0.5″ wide and 1.5″ tall. With a 0.5″ wide drill bit, drill an inch deep hole into the top of the torch.

A half inch drill bit

A hole for holding the party light

Drop the little party light in the hole and you’re good to go.

A light for the torch

A source of light in the darkness

The Finished Torch

I am pretty happy with how the torches came out. It is a great way to use leftover 2×2 boards in the garage and a neat treat for fans of the game.

DIY Minecraft Torches

The post DIY Minecraft Torch (Tutorial) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Wooden Car (Plans by Ana White)

Ashley — Sat, 21 Mar 2015 08:56:46 +0000

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.

Ashley Makes: DIY Wooden Car

I built a wooden toy truck using a leftover 1×4 board in my garage. For this build I used Ana White’s plans for the wood wheelie cars. This was a quick and easy project and my first project using my scroll saw.

The Tools and Supplies

Here’s a list of some of the tools and supplies I gathered to build the toy car:

A scrap 1×4 board
1.5″ x 0.5″ Wood Toy Wheels with Treads (4)
0.25″ Wood Dowel
Rockwell JawHorse Material Support and Saw Horse
A scroll saw
Mod Podge (Matte Finish)
DecoArt Americana Acrylic Paint (Santa Red)

Building the Toy Truck

First, I glued the truck template provided by Ana White onto my 1×4 board. I used Sheila Landry’s advice on applying scroll saw patterns: cover the wood with painter’s tape and glue the pattern on top of that. This protects the wood from the glue so it will take stains and paints well.

Ana White’s truck template

The truck template glued to the board

Next, I drilled several holes into the board so I had a spot to insert my scroll saw blade.

Holes drilled into board

Then, I used my scroll saw to cut out the shape of the truck.

Cutting out truck template with the scroll saw

Cutting complete

Once I had the shape cut out, I drilled holes for the truck’s axles (a drill press is on the wishlist now). I gave the truck a quick sanding and I applied two layers of craft acrylic paint to the body. After the paint dried I applied a couple layers of Mod Podge to seal the surface. For the final step, I attached the wheels.

The Completed Toy Truck

Not too shabby for my first go at toy making. However, I am not happy with the finished toy. If I did it all over again, I would take my time with the finish. Also, the driver was not perpendicular to the truck’s body when I created the holes for the axles, so the truck leans slightly (hence the drill press on the wishlist.) My son does not seem to notice its flaws, so I will try to overlook them as well!

DIY Wooden Toy Truck

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DIY Vintage Step Stool (Plans by Ana White)

Ashley — Sun, 15 Mar 2015 03:04:44 +0000

Disclosure: This entry contains affiliate links.

Ashley Makes: DIY Vintage Step Stool

Several years ago, the first woodworking project I finished was the Vintage Step Stool built with plans by Ana White. I use the step stool just about every day. I had some scrap lumber taking up space in my garage, so I decided to use it to build another step stool.

My first woodworking project

The Tools and Supplies

Here’s a list of some of the tools and supplies I gathered to build the step stool:

Kreg K5 Pocket-Hole Jig – It makes joining two boards a breeze!
Rockwell JawHorse – This is my second pair of hands! I love using this tool.
Bosch Jigsaw
Japanese Mini Saw Guide – I love using my handsaws. They are easy to setup, simple to use, and best of all quiet.
Charles Neil Pre-Color Conditioner – To prevent blotching
ECOS Paint Woodshield Stain (Special Walnut) – There is seriously no smell with this stuff.
ECOS Paint WoodShield Varnish (Satin) – There is a tiny odor when you first open the can, but it’s nothing compared to your traditional varnishes.
Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint (Boxwood)
Silhouette Portrait – For cutting out my footprint stencil

Building the Step Stool

Building the step stool was pretty easy and simple. The most time consuming part was using the jigsaw to cut out the shape of the sides. I used pocket holes to join my 1×2 boards to the 1×12 boards. This was a very tight fit for my drill and made for a very frustrating experience. I enlisted the help of my husband to drive in the screws.

Assembling the step stool

Ready for staining

Finishing the Step Stool

For my stool’s finish, I first applied a layer of ECOS Paint WoodShield in Special Walnut. Once the stain dried, I covered the edges of the stool with a coat of Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint in Ironstone.

ECOS Paint WoodShield Special Walnut

Mixing the WoodShield

Stool staining complete

Once the paint dried, I used my Silhouette Cameo to cut out a set of footprints from Contact paper. I followed the Shanty sister’s tutorial on creating a stencil with contact paper to get the perfect cut setting on my Silhouette. I sized the footprints to a height of 5 inches.

Silhouette foot prints

Next, I applied 2 coats of Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint in Boxwood on the entire stool. After the stain dried, I first distressed the edges of the stool and then I applied two coats of ECOS Paints WoodShield Stain Varnish.

Mixing Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint

Wet paint

Silhouette stencil removed

Ready to apply the varnish

The Completed Step Stool

I am happy with how the step stool turned out. I took my time with the finish and it really shows when the stool is compared to the first stool I built.

The step stool is completed!

Close up on the footprints

Side comparison between the old and the new

Front comparison between the old and the new

DIY Step Stool

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