Hello everyone, today I’m sharing details on my latest shop project: a mobile shop cart for my benchtop router. I purchased the Kreg benchtop router table almost a year ago, and unfortunately it has been sitting on my garage floor ever since I assembled it. Today it rests on a set of blue wheels and in this blog post I’m sharing how I built shop table for it.

(For sneak peeks on upcoming projects follow me on Instagram and for more DIY project tutorials check out my project gallery!)

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.  That means if you purchase an item via one of these links, I’ll receive a small commission at no added cost to you.

Let’s get started on the build!

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to build the mobile shop cart for my benchtop router table:

Tools

• Table saw / Miter saw
• Pocket Hole Jig
• Drill / Driver

Supplies

• 2×4 – 96″ (4)
• 2 1/4″ pocket hole screws (2″ if you mill the 2x4s before assembling)
• 3″ Caster Wheels (4)
• Screws and washers for caster wheel installation
• Wood Glue

How to build a basic mobile shop cart

My main goal for my benchtop router table was to keep it basic. I wanted a simple build that could easily be completed as a weekend project.

Step 1: Cut 2x4s to size

With a miter saw or saw of your choice, cut the 2×4 boards into the following parts:

• 23 1/2″ (8) – Long aprons
• 15″ (4) – Leg Part A
• 22″ (4) – Leg Part B

Important Note:

I milled my 2×4 boards before cutting and assembling them. The final dimensions of the boards were 1 1/4″ thick and 3 1/4″ wide. Typical dimension of store bought 2x4s is 1 1/2″ thick and 3 1/2″ wide. My project measurements match my milled thickness and width of 1 1/4″ thick and 3 1/4″ wide. Keep this in mind if you follow these build plans.

Step 2: Drill pocket holes

Grab a pocket hole jig drill and drill pockets holes on the following parts:

• Both ends of the Long Aprons
• Both ends of Leg Part A

Step 3: Assemble the mobile shop cart

Assemble the mobile shop cart as indicated in the following diagrams.

I spaced the boards for the shelf 3″ apart from one another.

Step 4: Install caster wheels

Grabs screws and matching washers and install 4 casters to the underside of the cart.

DIY Mobile Shop Cart for a Benchtop Router Table

It’s so nice to get my benchtop router off the floor and onto a table. I look forward to putting it to use in future project.

Check out some of my other shop projects:

• Geeky Goomba Lumber Storage Cart
• Dust Collection Cart
• Lumber Storage Cart (Plans from Woodworking for Mere Mortals)
• Mobile base for the Ridgid Jointer
• Lathe stand for a mini/midi lathe

Find me online!

• Instagram: @handmadewithashley
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• Twitter: @handmadewithash
• YouTube: @handmadewithashley
• Pinterest: @handmadewithashley
• Instructables: @handmadewithashley

The post Mobile Shop Cart for Benchtop Router | DIY Woodworking Tutorial appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Dust Collection Cart for Shop Vacuum with Dustopper (FREE PLANS)

Hello everyone, in this tutorial I’m sharing how to build a dust collection cart for the Ridgid shop vacuum and Dustopper  (a cyclone dust separator for a 5 gallon bucket). This is a weekend DIY project that can be built from a single sheet of plywood.

Ridgid Shop vacuum + Dustopper Cart

(For sneak peeks on upcoming projects follow me on Instagram and for more DIY project tutorials check out my project gallery!)

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.  That means if you purchase an item via one of these links, I’ll receive a small commission at no added cost to you.

Let’s get started on the build!

Watch the video tutorial

Click play and watch the video tutorial below.

For more woodworking videos, CLICK HERE to subscribe to my YouTube channel. Continue reading for the written tutorial.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to build the dust collection cart.

Tools

• Track saw
• Table saw
• Pocket Hole Jig
• Router with circle cutting jig
• Jigsaw
• Drill / Driver

Supplies

• 1 Sheet of 3/4″ Plywood
• 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
• 3″ Caster Wheels (4)
• Screws and washers for caster wheel installation
• Wood Glue

The 36″ hose that came with the Dustopper is a few inches too short so I used the hose that came with my Ridgid vacuum.

I also use a Bosch vacuum hose for my orbital sander. It’s a nice hose and I recommend it. It needs an adapter to connect to the Dustopper.

How to build a Cyclone Dust Collection Cart

DIY Dust Collection Cart Woodworking Plans

My dust collection cart is largely inspired by the dust carts built by John of John Builds It and Matt of MWA Woodworks. I merged my favorite features between the two carts into this one.

It has been a long time since I built something I modeled in SketchUp first. I have some rough woodworking plans for the dust cart. I hope to get better at this in the future.

Step 1: Cut parts according to the cut list

Dust Collection Cart Plywood Cut List

Break down the sheet of plywood into the following parts:

• 23 1/2″ x 40″ (Sides) x 2
• 24″ x 22″ (Base)
• 24″ x 14″ (Top Shelf)
• 4″ x 24″ (Braces) x 3
• 4″ x 22″ (Caster Supports) x 2

Cut diagram for the dust cart sides

Step 2: Drill pocket holes

Pocket holes drilled into plywood parts for the dust cart

Grab a pocket hole jig drill and drill pockets holes on the following parts:

• All four sides of the base
• The short sides of the top shelf
• The short sides of the braces

Step 3: Assemble the dust cart

Assembling the dust cart with pocket hole screws

Assemble the cart following the diagram. Attach the two sides together via the top shelf and three braces. Install the base 3/4″ from the bottom of sides to allow clearance for the caster supports.

Attaching caster support boards to dust cart

Finally attach the caster supports.

Step 4: Install caster wheels

Grabs screws and matching washers and install 4 casters to the underside of the dust cart.

Step 5: Cut a hole in the top shelf for the Dustopper bucket

Using a router with a circle cutting jig to cut a hole for the Dustopper bucket

Use a router with a circle cutting jig or a jigsaw to cut out a circle for the Dustopper bucket.

DIY Dust Collection Cart

The Dustopper + Shop Vac cart is a much needed shop addition. It’s so nice having the bucket on a set of wheels now.

Ridgid Shop Vacuum Dust Separator Cart

DIY Dust Cart for the Dustopper Dust Separator

DIY Project Challenge #1: Organization

My dust collection cart is part of a monthly blogger DIY project challenge. April’s theme is organization. The goal was to create a project that organizes some part of the home for under $50. Check out the other organization themed projects by my fellow bloggers:

• Easy DIY Corner Cabinet Organizer (Emory Farm)
• DIY Blanket Ladder (Joyful Derivatives)
• $50 Office Window Treatment Makeover (Kippi at Home)
• DIY Boot Tray (Sand Dollar Lane)
• Sunglass Holder – Easy DIY Wall Display (Never Skip Brunch)
• DIY Jewelry Wall Organizer (1905 Farmhouse)
• DIY Wrapping Paper Storage (Rufus & Henrietta)
• $50 Coat Closet Makeover (Southern Yankee DIY)
• DIY Bathroom Organization (Rocky Canyon Rustic)
• DIY Midcentury Modern Dresser Makeover (The DIY Nuts)

DIY Project Challenge #1: Organization

FIND ME ONLINE!

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• Instructables: @handmadewithashley

DIY Dust Collection Cart

The post Dust Collection Cart for a Shop Vac and Dustopper | How to Build Tutorial appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

Learn how to build a Bailey Chair for dogs suffering from Megaesophagus (an enlargement of the esophagus).

Hello everyone, today I’m sharing details on something I built recently: a Bailey Chair for dogs suffering from Megaesophagus.

Dogs with megaesophagus have an enlarged esophagus. This makes swallowing food difficult. Eating while in an upright position helps and the task of keeping the dog vertical is easier when the dog is sitting in a Bailey chair.

This blog post is less of a detailed how to and more of showing in progress photos. Adam, over at Lazy Guy DIY, has put together a great tutorial on how to build the Bailey Dog Chair. I followed his instructions with very few modifications.

(For sneak peeks on upcoming projects follow me on Instagram!)

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.  That means if you purchase an item via one of these links, I’ll receive a small commission at no added cost to you.  This helps keep the content on the site free and I appreciate the support! :o)

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to build the Bailey Dog Chair.

Tools

• Table saw
• Bandsaw (optional)
• Router with flush cutting bit (for rounded corners)
• Corner radius template
• Router circle cutting jig (or a jig saw)
• Orbital sander
  
• Pocket hole jig
• Drill / Driver
• Silhouette (for optional name customization)

Supplies

• 3/4″ plywood
• 6″ stainless steel bowl
• 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
• A pair of door hinges
• 1 square of EVA foam flooring (used this as cushion in the interior of the chair)
• Clear gloss spray can
• 1 sheet of black cardstock (for optional name customization)
• Spray adhesive (for optional name customization)

How to build a Bailey Dog Chair

To build the chair, I just followed Adam’s instructions. The dog’s measurements were taken and I adjusted the plans to match.

3D Printed Router Corner Radius Guide

I added a corner radius to a few of the corners. I used my router paired with a corner radius guide. This was a neat tool that I 3D printed.

Watch the Instagram video below to see it in action:

View this post on Instagram

Here’s a quick video of the 3D printed corner radius template in action. Super handy! (If you missed my previous post I found the model for these on @thingiverse.) I think these will work better on a router table but using it with a handheld router worked pretty well. Clamps got in the way so I used some double sided tape from @xfastenbrand to keep the template in place. My corners are a match so I am really happy with that. . #3dprintedtools #woodworker #woodwork #thingiverse #mfpbehindthescenes #3dprint #cornerradius #plywood #makitarouter

A post shared by Ashley Grenon | Geeky Maker (@handmadewithashley) on Dec 22, 2018 at 5:09pm PST

Pocket Hole Joinery

I used pocket hole joints to assemble the chair. This was a really quick build.

Name Customization

I thought adding the dog’s name would be a really nice touch to the Bailey Chair. I used my Silhouette Portrait to cut the dog’s name, Chewewee, out of black card stock.

I used sprayed adhesive to attach it to the door of the Bailey chair.

DIY Bailey Dog Chair

The post DIY Bailey Chair for Dogs with Megaesophagus appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Junior Loft Bed (Plans by Ana White)

I assisted a friend in building a loft bed for her daughter.  We followed free plans by Ana White for the junior loft bed. We made a few modifications such as changing it to fit a full-sized mattress (more details down below). The loft bed is the largest furniture item that I have built thus far. I have learned a lot from working on the project. In this post, I’ll share the steps we took to build it.

CLICK HERE to view more DIY furniture projects.

(For sneak peeks on upcoming projects follow me on Facebook and Instagram!)

Homemade junior loft bed

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.  That means if you purchase an item via one of these links, I’ll receive a small commission at no added cost to you.  This helps keep the content on the site free and I appreciate the support! :o) For more details read my disclosure policy.

Tools and Materials

The following items are some of the tools and supplies we gathered to build the junior loft bed.  For a complete listing of what is needed to build the loft bed check out Ana White’s free plan.

Tools

• Circular saw
• Kreg Jig
• Kreg Mobile Project Center (I love this workbench)
• Clamps
• Belt sander
• Orbital sander
• Drill / Driver

Materials

• Bed rail brackets (knockdown hardware)
• Pocket hole screws
• Behr White paint

How to build a Loft Bed

Continue reading for in progress photos, modifications to the original plans and lessons learned from building the junior loft bed.

3 Modifications to the original plan

1. The biggest modification made to the original loft bed plans was adjusting the size to fit a full-sized mattress instead of the twin mattress. In addition to increasing the length of the bed, we added a 2×6 board to the middle of the bed for extra mattress support.
2. The other major modification we made was using knockdown hardware instead of pocket hole joints for connecting the bed together.  We wanted this bed to be something that could be assembled and disassembled easily because the bed was built at my home but needed to be transported to another.
3. The final modification made to the project was using 4×4 posts instead of 2×4 posts. This added additional stability to the bed.

Building the loft bed

We used pocket hole joinery to bed most of the bed. I used the Kreg Jig K5 to create the pocket holes. For the bed rails and mattress support, we used bed rail brackets.  I purchased 6 pairs of bed rail brackets as well as a bracket for the center mattress support board. The center support is a 2×6 board cut the same length as the bed rails. This board was not included in the original plans. We added it to support the additional weight of the full-sized mattress.

Building the junior loft bed with a mixture of pocket hole joinery with the Kreg Jig and knockdown hardware with the bed rail brackets.

We painted the bed with white paint and sealed with a satin finish. We used a paint roller. (I think we regretted not using a paint sprayer.)

Painting the junior loft bed with white paint

The kid approved of the new bed.

(The stairs were completed after the bed was delivered to the home. Originally we used nails to hold the steps in place.  This did not hold up for long and screws were used to secure the steps.)

Homemade junior loft bed

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DIY Junior Loft Bed | Free Woodworking Plans by ANA WHITE

The post DIY Loft Bed (Plans by Ana White) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Storage Bench with D. Lawless Hardware – August’s FFFC

I have a bad habit of starting new projects before completing old projects.  About a year ago, I started to build a storage bench following plans by Ana White.  I was about half way done with the building portion of it when I stopped working on it.  I don’t recall what distracted me from completion, but it sat in my garage for months!

(Instagram informs me that I took this photo 52 weeks ago from today.  Yikes!)

Today I’m working on an entry way storage bench. I can’t wait to get this one done! #woodworking #krejjig #garageshop #shanty2chic #anawhite #sawdustfriday #pockethole #letsdothis #diy

A photo posted by Ashley Grenon (@handmadewithashley) on Aug 28, 2015 at 11:06am PDT

When I joined August’s Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest, I looked around the house for a piece of old furniture that could use some TLC.  I then got the idea of revisiting the bench project. Today, I will share the steps I took to build and finish the bench.  However before I begin, I want to first give the Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest and this month’s sponsor the proper introduction!

The Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest

Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest

The Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest is a monthly furniture decorating contest.  Each month there is a new theme and a new sponsor.  August’s theme is “class it up,” and August’s sponsor is D. Lawless Hardware!  D. Lawless Hardware has a huge selection of hardware for really good prices.

The Fab Furniture Flippin’ Hosts

The Storage Bench

I am really happy with the final look of the storage bench.  I used 4 large 2″ ring pulls from D. Lawless Hardware in the Dark Antique Bronze (item number P3031-DAB).

DIY Storage Bench with pulls from D. Lawless Hardware

Here’s a close up on the pulls:

Large 2″ Ring Pulls (Dark Antique Bronze) from D. Lawless Hardware

DIY Storage Bench

Building the Bench

I closely followed Ana White’s plans for the Alexia Storage bench.

Bench sides assembled

Attaching the bench back

Attaching a decorative trim

Finishing the Bench

Once the surface of the bench was prepped, I stained the seat portion of the bench with Danish Oil (Dark Walnut) and I painted the bottom portion of the bench with an off-white color.

I forgot to precondition the wood before staining and I was a little worried about the appearance, but I have successfully convinced myself it gives the bench a lot of character.

That moment when you realize you forgot to precondition the wood before staining. I keep telling myself it gives it character. #almostdone #diy #woodworking #thatmomentwhen #diyfurniture #woodwork #woodworker #wood #kregjig #anawhite #shanty2chic #danishoil #watco #furniture #buildersgonnabuild #buildallthethings #storagebench #bench

A photo posted by Ashley Grenon (@handmadewithashley) on Aug 25, 2016 at 6:35pm PDT

Installing the Hardware

After the finish dried, I installed drawer slides for the drawers and installed the ring pulls.

Trying to decided on where to place the pulls

Drilled holes for installing the ring pulls

DIY Storage Bench with D. Lawless Hardware – August’s FFFC

DIY Storage Bench

DIY Storage Bench

DIY Storage Bench

DIY Storage Bench with pulls from D. Lawless Hardware

The post DIY Storage Bench with D. Lawless Hardware – August’s FFFC appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Apothecary Console

Hello everyone, today I want to share with you my latest creation: a media console!  Several months ago, my sister approached me with the request of helping her build a media console for her home.  She found plans by Ana White for the Apothecary Cabinet Console.  We left off the doors and drawers in favor of having open shelves.  We worked on this project over the course of several weekends and my sister is very happy with the final result!

My TV Stand! #anawhiteplans #kregjig #minwaxstain #jacobean #coffeeglaze

A photo posted by LifeStyleW/Brit (@lifestylewithbrit) on Jun 16, 2016 at 6:50am PDT

Disclosure: This post contains some affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies we gathered to build the Apothecary Console.  For a complete listing of what is required, check out Ana White’s plans for the console.

Tools

• Circular Saw
• Kreg Jig
• Kreg Right Angle clamps (I adore these clamps, a must if you use pocket hole joints)
• Orbital Sander
• Brad Nailer

Supplies

• Minwax Wood Stain (Jacobean)  (This is the same color we used to stain her rustic coffee table.)
• ECOS Paints WoodShield Satin Varnish

The top of the console is pine and the base is built from MDF.
 

Building the Console

Step 1: Cut the lumber

First up, we cut down all the lumber with my mini circular saw.

The lumber is cut

Step 2:  Create pocket holes

Next up, we used the Kreg Jig pocket hole system and drilled pocket holes on the boards.

Kreg Jig pocket holes

Step 3: Assemble the console

Next we began to assemble the console piece by piece.  The Kreg right angle clamps were incredibly useful at this step.

Attaching the first pieces

Adding one more board

Adding two more boards

Getting closer

Step 4:  Fill in the pocket holes and sand

Once the console was assembled, we filled in the pocket holes with wood filler.  We then cycled through several grits of sand paper to prep the surface for painting and staining.

Catching up on the queue of projects. Once I’m caught up I hope I never start a new project without finishing an old one! #diy #woodworking

A photo posted by Ashley Grenon (@handmadewithashley) on Feb 13, 2016 at 2:06pm PST

Step 5: Stain, paint, and seal

We stained the top of the console with Minwax Wood Stain in Jacobean.  The base of the console was painted white.  We stained the console top prior to attaching it to the base.

Console base painted white

Attaching the top of the console

The apothecary console was sealed with a few coats of ECOS Paints WoodShield Satin varnish.

DIY Apothecary Console

DIY media console

DIY media console

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DIY TV Console

The post DIY Apothecary Console (Plans by Ana White) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Rustic Console Tutorial

Hello, everyone! Today I want to share with you my latest creation: a rustic console!  This is a pretty easy build that you could knock out in couple weekends.  Follow along for steps on how to build one of your own!

Rustic Console model

(For sneak peeks on upcoming projects follow me on Facebook and Instagram!)

DIY Rustic Console

Disclosure:  This post contains some affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to build the rustic console:

Tools

• Handsaw (or any saw of your choice)
• Jigsaw
• Kreg Jig
• Drill
• Driver
• Orbital sander
• Belt sander
• Various clamps

Supplies

• ECOS Paints Woodshield Stain (Pine Needles)
• ECOS Paints Woodshield Varnish (Satin)
• Various grits of sandpaper
• Foam brushes

Lumber

• 1x6x10 (3)
• 1x4x10 (3)
• 1x8x6 (1)
• 1x2x8 (1)

My current passenger. #diy #woodworking

A photo posted by Ashley Grenon (@handmadewithashley) on Mar 11, 2016 at 8:43am PST

The estimated price of all the supplies and lumber is roughly $150.

Cut List

• A) 1×2 – 14 1/2″ (4)
• B) 1×4 – 43 1/4″ (2)
• C) 1×4 – 43″ (2)
• D) 1×4 – 28 3/4″ (4)
• E) 1×4 – 14 1/4″ (2)
• F) 1×6 – 48″ (2)
• G) 1×6 – 43 1/4″ (4)
• H) 1×8 – 48″ (1)

Lumber cut into the appropriate sizes

How to build a Rustic Console

For this project, I finally sat down and learned how to create models in SketchUp!  You can download the PDF woodworking plans for the console here.

If you’re interested in learning SketchUp, I highly recommend the video tutorials by Matthias at Woodworking for Engineers.

Step 1:  Taper the table legs (optional)

If you would like to add a little flair to your console, taper the ends of each table leg (board D) with a jigsaw.

Tapering the table legs with a jigsaw

Step 2:  Create pocket holes

I used a Kreg Jig pocket hole system for a majority of the joints in this project.  Drill pocket holes in the locations indicated on the diagrams.

Drilling pocket holes

Step 3:  Assemble the console legs.

Assemble the table legs

To form a pair of table legs, sandwich board E between boards D.  Offset board E 1″ from the edge of board D.  Repeat.

Assembling the table legs

Step 4: Connect the pair of legs with an apron

Attach the aprons

Connect the pair of legs together with boards C.  This will form the frame of the console.

Rustic console frame

Step 5: Attach shelf supports

Attach the shelf supports

Attach the shelf supports (boards A) to each pair of legs.  Attach the shelf supports adjacent to the inside edge of the table leg pairs.  The first set of shelf supports are placed 13 3/4″ from the top of the leg.  The second set of shelf supports are placed 25 1//2″ from the top of the leg.

Attaching the shelf supports

Step 6: Edge join the console shelves

Create the top shelf by edge joining boards F and H together.  Board H should be in the middle.

Create the two lower shelves by joining boards G and B together.  Board B should be in the middle.

Gluing up the shelves

If neccessary, use a belt sander to smooth down the  joints.

Step 7:  Attach the console frame to the top shelf

Attach the top shelf

Attach the top shelf to the console frame.

Attaching the top shelf

Step 8:  Attach the lower shelves to the console frame

Attach the lower shelves

Attaching the lower shelves

I made some great progress on the console. Up next: sanding! Has anyone used a scraper? I think I may try one in the future. #woodworking #diy #warpedwood #kregjig #buildallthethings #buildsomething #wood #furniture #diyblogger #diyfurniture

A photo posted by Ashley Grenon (@handmadewithashley) on Mar 15, 2016 at 9:42am PDT

Step 9: Sand, stain and seal!

Thoroughly sand the console.  Use your favorite stain and sealer to finish the console.

Staining the rustic console

I used ECOS Paints Woodshield stain (Pine Needles) and satin sealer.

DIY Rustic Console

If you build a rustic console, please leave a comment below or tag me on Instagram @handmadewithashley or Twitter @handmadewithash.   I’d love to see your pictures!

DIY Rustic Console

DIY Rustic Console

DIY Rustic Console

DIY Rustic Console

The post DIY Rustic Console Tutorial (FREE Plans) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

Build a Star Wars TIE Fighter Bookshelf

Since the release of The Force Awakens, whenever I brainstorm new project ideas a Star Wars related idea always comes up! Today’s project just so happens to be another Star Wars themed project; it’s a TIE fighter bookshelf!   I was able to make use of some scrap lumber I already owned.  Paint was the only item I purchased for the project.  Everything else I had on hand.  Follow along and build one for yourself or the Star Wars fan in your life.

And, if you like this DIY, check out my tutorial for a Star Wars Marquee Wall Art Sign!

DIY Star Wars Marquee Wall Art Sign

Or this tutorial on how to make a BB-8 push toy!

BB-8 Push Toy in action!

A TIE fighter bookshelf

TIE Fighter Bookshelf

Star Wars Bookshelf

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to create the TIE fighter bookshelf.

Tools

• Circular saw
• Jigsaw
• Kreg Jig (for joining boards, love this tool)
• JawHorse (for securing the lumber for cutting, it’s an awesome 2nd pair of hands)
• Ruler / Straight edge
• Orbital Sander

Supplies

• Scrap lumber
  • 3/4 thick plywood 13 inches x 26 inches
  • 1×8 board 48 inches long
• Gray paint (1 pint)
• Black paint (1 pint)
• 1″ thick painter’s tape
• 1/2″ thick washi tape (I used this in place of painter’s tape)
• Wood glue
• Wood filler
• 1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws

How to build a TIE Fighter Bookshelf

One of my goals for 2016 is to learn how to use SketchUp so I can share pretty woodworking plans and diagrams.

Step 1:  Cut the wood to the appropriate sizes

First up, take the piece of plywood and cut it in half.  You should have two 13 inch squares.  I used my mini circular with a track guide to cut the plywood down to the appropriate lengths.

You will also cut the 1×8 board in half.  This will leave you with two pieces at 24 inches long.

Cutting the plywood in half

Step 2:  Cut out the TIE fighter wing shape

The TIE fighter wings are shaped sorta like a hexagon.  I used a jigsaw to cut out the shape.  Draw a few lines on the pieces of plywood to mark where the jigsaw blade should follow along.

1. Draw a line from the mid-point of each side
2. Measure 2 inches from a corner, and create a line from that point to a mid-point

Cutting out the TIE fighter wings with a jigsaw

Step 3:  Drill pocket holes.

I really like pocket hole joints. They’re really easy to make and very sturdy.  I used my Kreg Jig to create several pocket holes.

• I created 3 pocket holes on the length of one of the 1×8 boards.
• I created 2 pocket holes on each side of the 1×8 boards.

Creating pocket holes with my Kreg Jig

Step 4:  Sand the lumber!

Spend some time cycling through different grits of sand paper.   I used my orbital sander equiped with sandpaper grits of 60, 80, 100, 120, and 220.

Step 5:  Paint the bookshelf

Once sanding is complete, prime the bookshelf.  Once the primer is dry, paint the shelf with a base coat of gray.

Painting the TIE Fighter Wings

1. With the 1 inch painter’s tape, tape the border of the TIE fighter wing.
2. Use the tape to connect opposing corners
3. Use the tape to create a small hexagon-like shape at the intersection of all the tape lines
4. Cover the uncovered areas with black paint

Repeat these steps for each side of the wings.

Painting the TIE Fighter Cockpit

1. Draw the shape of a semi-circle in the center of the 1×8 boards.
   • Imagine the boards are joined at 90 degrees, the circle’s midpoint is at the center of the joint
   • When the boards are joined, one side will be 3/4 longer than the other
   • On the board that does not have pocket holes lengthwise, offset the semi-circle by 3/4 inch.
2. Draw the shape of a octagon in the center of the previously drawn circle
   • On the board that does not have pocket holes lengthwise, offset the octagon by 3/4 inch as well.
3. With 1/2 thick painter’s tape (I actually used some washi tape) mask off from each point on the octagon to the outer circle.   (See picture below)
4. Paint the uncovered areas within the circle with black paint

The diameter of the outer circle is 10″.  The width of the inner octagon is 4 1/4″ and the length of each side is 1 5/8″.

You could skip this step because books will probably cover the cockpit, but I think it adds a really nice touch.

Painting the TIE fighter bookshelf

Step 6:  Assemble the shelf

You can assemble the shelf before painting.  I painted half, then assembled and painted the remaining half.

Join the 1×8 boards at 90 degrees.  Attach the shelf to each wing.  I winged it on joining the shelf to wings.

I covered my pocket holes with wood filler, but pocket holes are not visible from the front.

Joining the shelf to the TIE fighter wings

Step 7:  Seal the project

Finally, coat the shelf with your favorite sealer.

The TIE Fighter Bookshelf

The bookshelf cost me roughly 7 bucks!  That was the cost of the paint.  This was great use of some leftover lumber and it’s bringing a bit of much needed order to my son’s book collection.

If you build a TIE fighter bookshelf, please leave a comment below or tag me on Instagram @handmadewithashley or Twitter @handmadewithash.   I’d love to see your pictures!

DIY TIE Fighter Bookshelf

Build a TIE Fighter bookshelf

TIE Fighter Bookshelf

Star Wars TIE Fighter Bookshelf

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DIY Star Wars Bookshelf Tutorial

Check out my other Star Wars themed projects!

I’m linking up to:

• The DIY Showoff
• Home Stories A to Z
• Remodelaholic
• Tater Tots and Jello

Reader Projects

Tie Fighter bookshelves are perfect for DVD storage. Made enough pieces for 2 more, just saying….. Visit @handmadewithash for tutorial. #265design #starwars #tiefighter

A photo posted by J.Cammarata (@265design) on Sep 9, 2016 at 6:16pm PDT

The post How to build a Star Wars TIE Fighter Bookshelf (Tutorial) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Geometric Kids Art Table

My little toddler has discovered the wonderful world of coloring.  He adores scribbling with crayons and markers.  I wanted to create a bright and colorful space to encourage his artistic abilities.  I wanted to build him an art table!  Today I will share with you how I built my little toddler’s art table and how I applied its finish.  However, before I dive into the steps, I want to introduce you to the Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest!

(For sneak peeks on upcoming projects follow me on Facebook and Instagram!)

Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest

The Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest is a monthly furniture decorating contest.  Each month there is a new theme and a new sponsor.  September’s theme is geometry, and September’s sponsor is General Finishes!

General Finishes

General Finishes carries a nice variety of water based and oil based finishes.  I think they are best known for their gel stains.  (I have been wanting to try their gel stain for quite some time now.)  Each participant received one quart of a General Finishes product, and the winner will receive a full case of General Finishes products. This post is my first entry in the Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest, and I received one quart of Milk Paint from General Finishes.

Our Fab Hosts

September’s fab hosts are Lynn from Fern Avenue and Carrie at Thirty Eight Street.  Our fab hosts kicked off this month’s contest with geometric themed pieces of their own.  Be sure to check out Lynn’s console table furniture flip and Carrie’s cabinet flip.  If you are a blogger and you are interested in participating in future contests, please send an email to info@fabfurnitureflippincontest.com.

Geometric kids art table

My little toddler’s art table is knock off of an art table I found while browsing Pottery Barn Kids.  The table retails for $349.  With taxes and shipping, I was able to create my version for a quarter of the price.  The table is 50.5” long, 27.5” wide and 24” tall.

Pottery Barn Kids Art Table

The following video shows the art table paper roll in action:

Disclosure:  This post contains affliate links.  I received one quart of General Finishes Milk paint for free.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to build and finish the kids art table:

• General Finishes Milk Paint (Snow White)
• Pine Stain
• Gloss Varnish
• Acrylic craft paints (I used Delta Ceramcoat in the following colors)
  • Sunset
  • True turquoise
  • Ultra blue
• 1” painters tape
• Foam Brushes
• Kreg Jig (for joining boards)
• Kreg Right Angle Clamps
• 1.25” Coarse Kreg Pocket Hole Screws
• Japanese Handsaw and Guide
• Rockwell VersaCut Circular Saw with Track Guide
• Jigsaw (optional – for tapering legs)
• Drill/driver
• Orbital Sander equipped with sandpaper ranging from 100 grit to 220 grit
• Wood filler
• Wood glue
• Lumber (cut list)
  • A – 1x6x26″ (2)
  • B – 1x4x26” (4)
  • C – 1x4x50.5” (2)
  • D – 1x4x23.5” (4) – table legs
  • E – 1x4x24.5” (2)
  • F – 1x3x24.5” (2)
  • G – 1x3x28.5” (2)
  • I – 3/4” plywood at 26×35.5”
• Wooden dowel at 26” long (optional – for paper roll)

Building the Art Table

Learning SketchUp is definitely on my to-do list!

Update:  Hey guys, check out Ana White’s knockoff version of the art table with free SketchUp plans plus she has put together a nice video tutorial as well!

Step 1:  Cut the boards to the appropriate lengths.

I used my Japanese handsaw and guide to cut all the boards down to the appropriate lengths.  I used my mini-circular saw to rip the plywood into the appropriate dimension.

Tools for cutting the lumber and plywood

Step 2:  Create pocket holes

With my Kreg Jig and a drill, I created a ton of pocket holes for joining the boards together.

Kreg Jig K5 and pocket holes

Step 3:  Assemble the tabletop.

I created the table top by joining pieces A, B, C and I.

Joining boards A, B and C together

Tabletop assembly is complete

Step 4:  Taper the legs (optional)

I tapered the table’s legs (piece D) with a jigsaw.

Tapering table legs with a jigsaw

Step 5:  Drill hole in 2 table legs for paper roll (optional)

I drilled a hole 6” from the top of the leg for holding a paper roll.  Heh, I could have done a better job drilling the hole.

Drilling hole for paper roll

Step 6:  Assemble the table base

To create the base of the table, I first joined boards D (2) to F.

Joining boards D and F

For extra leg support, I attached board E.

Attaching board E

Finally, I joined each pair of legs with boards G.

The table base is complete

Step 7:  Attach the tabletop to the table base

I flipped the tabletop upside down and attached the based.

Attaching the table base to the tabletop

Finishing  the Art Table

After a good bit of sanding, I was ready for the really fun part:  painting!

Step 1:  Apply the base coat

I applied 3 coats of General Finishes Milk Paint in Snow White.  This was my first time using General Finishes Milk Paint and it won’t be the last.  The Milk Paint was very easy to apply and had very rich color.

General Finishes Milk Paint in Snow White

Step 2:  Stain the inside of the storage cubbies (optional)

I love two-toned finishes.  Especially when they are paired with the color white.  Midway through painting, I decided that’s a look I wanted in the art table and I am very pleased the results!

Storage cubbies stained with a pine finish

Step 3:  Tape off a geometric pattern

With 1” painters tape, I taped off the perimeter of the table top.  Then I applied a few strips of tape from one edge to another.  And finally, I applied smaller strips of tape.

Geometric pattern taped off

Step 4:  Paint the sections

I used 3 different colors of acrylic craft paint to fill in each section of tape.

Painting the sections

Step 5:  Seal with a varnish

For the final step, I sealed the table with 3 coats of gloss varnish.

The Finished Art Table

This art table is one of my favorite builds so far.  I love the geometric pattern, and I adore how the table is so bright and cheery.

DIY Geometric Kids Art Table

Art table with a paper roll

Geometric kids art table

Before and after – geometric kids art table

The post DIY Geometric Kids Art Table – September Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest Entry appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Auburn Football Cornhole Boards

Hello everyone!  I just finished my latest creation:  Auburn University themed cornhole boards!  It took a couple of weekends to finish and cost about $150 in tools and supplies to make (acquiring a 6 inch hole saw plus matching drill bit was about $50 of that total.)  I followed This Old House‘s tutorial on building a cornhole board, and in the following post I share the steps I took to create the cornhole boards!

Auburn themed cornhole boards

Disclosure:  This post contains affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to build the Auburn cornhole boards.  For a complete listing, check out This Old House’s tutorial on building a cornhole board.

• 6 inch diameter hole saw
• Hole saw arbor
• Silhouette Portrait (for creating stencils)
• half sheet of 1/2 inch plywood
• 4 – 2×4 boards 8 feet long
• 4 – 3/8 x 3 1/2 inch carriage bolts
• 4 – 3/8 inch washers
• 4 – 3/8 inch wing nuts
• Kreg Jig (for joining boards)
• Kreg Right Angle Clamps
• Japanese Hand saw and Guide (cutting 2×4 boards)
• Rockwell VersaCut Circular Saw with Track Guide (cross cutting plywood)
• Glidden Paint Team Colors (for the official shades of orange and blue)

Building the Cornhole Boards

Step 1:  Cut plywood into two 24×48 inch pieces

I used my VersaCut circular saw and its track guide to cut a sheet of plywood into 24 inch wide strips.

Cutting plywood with the Rockwell VersaCut

Step 2:  Cut the 2×4 boards

I used my handsaw to cut the 2×4 boards into 4 pieces at 21 inches long and 4 pieces at 12 inches long.

Step 3:  Assemble the frame

With my Kreg Jig, I created pocket hole joints to piece together the cornhole board frame.

Creating pocket holes with the Kreg Jig

I assembled the frame with the appropriate screws.  At this point I realized I made a poor selection with the 2×4 boards.  A couple of the boards were severely warped.  It increased the difficulty level for assembling the frame.  I had to use a lot clamps to fight the wood. (My personal favorite clamp when I use pocket hole joints is the Kreg right angle clamp.   I recommend owning two!)

Fighting warped wood

Cornhole board frames are complete!

Step 4:  Attach the plywood to the frame

I also used pocket hole joints to attach the sheet of plywood to the 2×4 frame.

Attaching plywood to the frame

Ready for the hole saw

Step 5:  Create a 6 inch hole

Up next, I created a 6 inch hole.  The center point of the circle was 12 inches from the side and 9 inches from the top.  I do not trust my jigsaw skills, so I purchased a 6 inch hole saw and a matching drill bit to attach the hole saw.  (I made a mistake here and purchased a bit that was too large for my drill.)

6 inch hole saw and required drill bit

The kickback with a large hole saw is no joke.  I did not have a very strong grip on my drill as I made contact with the plywood.  I lost control of the drill and the spinning saw went flying and hit my shin.  I thank God I was wearing a pair of jeans.  I’m pretty sure the injury (warning – blood) would require stitches otherwise.

Heh, so at this point I was at little intimidated with the hole saw.

Step 6:  Prep the boards for paint

I sanded the surface of the boards.  A few spots where the plywood and 2×4 frame met were not flush.  I love my orbital sander, but it is not very good at removing a lot of material.  So for this project I acquired a new tool:  a belt sander!  I purchased the Ryobi 3″ x 18″ belt sander.  (This tool would have been really nice to have while I was finishing my industrial factory cart coffee table or any project with edge to edge joints.)

Step 7:  Attach the legs

I followed The Old House tutorial for attaching the legs to the cornhole boards.

Painting the Cornhole Boards

Building the cornhole boards was easy.  Painting the boards was where all the real work took place!

Step 1:  Apply a base coat.

Glidden Paint at Home Depot have a Team Colors collection.   I purchased a quart of the Auburn blue and orange.  I used a nice quality paint brush to apply each color.

Base coat of paint drying

Step 2:  Create Auburn themed stencils

I imported images of the official Auburn logos into the Silhouette Studio software and created cut files for AU and tiger logos.  You can skip this step and download the cut files I created here:

• AU logo cut file
• Auburn tiger cut file
• “War Eagle” cut file

I used my Silhouette Portrait to cut the stencils out of contact paper.  I followed the Shanty sister’s tutorial on creating a stencil with contact paper to get the perfect cut setting.  I also followed the Silhouette School Blog’s tutorial for cutting  oversized stencils.

This was the the first project that made me really wish I owned the Silhouette Cameo (the larger of the two machines.)

Auburn Tiger stencils with the Silhouette

Step 3:  Stencil in the logos

I applied the contact paper stencils to the boards and used a stencil brush to paint in the space.  This was by far the most tedious step of the whole project.   I used Delta Ceramcoat in Ultra Blue and Orange Soda to paint the Auburn tiger logo.

Stenciling in the AU logo

Stenciling in the Auburn Tiger and War Eagle

Once the stenciling was over, I needed to apply some touch up paint in a few spots.

Stencil time is over! Yay!

Step 4:  Apply a clear coat

For the final step, I applied a few layers of clear coat to protect the finish.  I have not mastered the art of avoiding brush marks, so I was a bit disappointed with my clear coat job.

The Completed Cornhole Boards

DIY Cornhole Board

Auburn themed cornhole boards

Homemade cornhole boards

The post DIY Cornhole Board appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.