As a mom of two young children, I often find it difficult to spend time on my hobbies. Here’s a bit of advice I heard a while ago:

In a response to the question, “how do you find time for your hobbies?” Scott Hanselman answered, “I incorporate my children into my hobbies.”

It’s a really great piece of advice and I’ve taken it to heart. Whenever it’s safe, I have my children in the shop. My oldest is mildly interested in woodworking. We started attending the Kids Workshops at Home Depot and he loves his creations. One thing I’ve observed is he could use a little more practice with using a hammer and nails. So I thought of a create little exercise: a scrap wood porcupine!

(For sneak peeks on upcoming projects follow me on Instagram!)

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.  That means if you purchase an item via one of these links, I’ll receive a small commission at no added cost to you.  This helps keep the content on the site free and I appreciate the support! :o)

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES

Here is some of the tools and supplies for the scrap wood porcupine:

• Scrap piece of 4×4 wood
• 2″ nails
• Hammer (I bought this small for my son. Fits well in his hands)
• Markers (For decorations)

How to make a scrap wood porcupine

The scrap wood porcupine is a great exercise for practicing hammer control. I gave my son a hammer and a bunch of nails and let him have at it.

I did give him a brief lesson on how to use the tool and he really enjoyed the project.

The post Scrap Wood Porcupine | Kids Woodworking Project appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

How to build a bandsaw circle cutting jig. Make repeatable perfect wooden circles!

Hello everyone, today I’m sharing how to build a circle cutting jig for your bandsaw. This is a really easy shop project that will make cutting circles a breeze. My bandsaw circle jig is largely inspired by George Vondriska’s bandsaw circle cutting jig. I loved the adjustable dovetail slider feature in his jig and had to incorporate into my jig.

Let’s get started!

(For sneak peeks on upcoming projects follow me on Instagram!)

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.  That means if you purchase an item via one of these links, I’ll receive a small commission at no added cost to you.  This helps keep the content on the site free and I appreciate the support! :o)

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to create my bandsaw circle cutting jig:

Tools

• Bandsaw
• Table saw
• Drill press
• 3/16″ drill bit
• 5/16″ drill bit
• Clamps
• Playing cards

Supplies

• 1/4″ – 20 Threaded Inserts
• 1/4″ – 20 Thread Size Star Knob
• Sticky Measurement Tape
• 3/16″ dowel
• 1/2″ Plywood (I used scraps)
• Scrap hardwood for miter slot runner and stop block
• Double sided tape
• Rare earth magnet
• E-6000 Glue
• Wood Glue

How to Video Tutorial

Watch the how to make video below or continue reading for the written tutorial.

How to Make a Circle Cutting Jig for the Bandsaw

The bandsaw circle jig is a quick weekend shop project that can be made using scraps from your woodworking pile.

Step 1: Cut a piece of plywood for the base of circle jig

Cut a piece of plywood for the base of your bandsaw jig. My circle jig was created to fit on the Rikon 10-305 bench top bandsaw and is roughly 11″ x 16″. Your dimensions will vary based on the size of your bandsaw and on the size of the average circles that you want to create.  The maximum sized circle that I can cut with my jig is just shy of 16″ radius.

Step 2: Cut a sliding dovetail

Cut a second piece of plywood to match the dimensions of your circle jig base.

Make a mark where the bandsaw blade will line up and from that point mark two lines: an inch above and below the initial mark.  This section will be the adjustable sliding dovetail.

Cut along the lines with a 30 degree bevel on the table saw to create the sliding dovetail.

Sliding dovetail cut at a 30 degree bevel

Step 3: Assemble the jig

Glue the top sides to the base of the circle jig. First glue and clamp one side. Place the sliding dovetail with a card on each side before gluing and clamping the second side. This will ensure that the dovetail has room to freely slide in and out.

Using playing cards as a shim for the sliding dovetail

Once the glue dries, trim up the edges of the jig on the table saw.

Step 4: Create a stop block

I used a scrap piece of oak and attached it to end of the circle jig.  You’ll want to ensure that the stop block allows the jig pivot dowel to line up with the front of the bandsaw blade.

Step 5: Attach a runner for the miter gauge

Attaching a runner for the miter gauge slot

Using more scrap oak, I ripped a piece of oak that matched the width of my bandsaw’s miter slot and attached it to the base of the circle cutting jig.

Step 6: Install magnets for jig stability

At this point I noticed a had an imbalance issue with my bandsaw jig. I installed a small rare earth magnet to the base of my bandsaw jig. It was a magnet that purchased a long time ago so I do not know what the strength rating was, but it did the trick in resolving my jig’s balance issue.

Step 7: Create clamping mechanism for the sliding dovetail

Drill a 5/16″ hole in the sliding dovetail channel. Install a 1/4″ threaded insert. Screw in a 1/4″ star knob to clamp the sliding dovetail into place.

Using a threaded insert and a star knob for the sliding dovetail’s clamping mechanism

This was my first time using threaded inserts. It was a breeze and adds a nice touch to the project.

Step 8: Install dowel for circle pivot point

Drill a 3/16″ hole and insert a 3/16″ dowel. This is the pivot point for the wood blanks.

Step 9: Install sticky measurement tape

This final step is a really nice to have: installing sticky measurement tape.  To install the tape:

1. Lock the sliding dovetail into place
2. Cut a circle on the bandsaw with the jig
3. Measure the diameter of the circle
4. Line the sticky measurement tape up with the end of the sliding dovetail
5. Cut off any excess tape

Applying sticky measurement tape to indicate the radius of the circle

Now you’re adjustable bandsaw circle jig is ready for action. Enjoy!

Cutting a circle with the bandsaw circle cutting jig

Bandsaw circle cutting jig on the Rikon 10-305 bench top bandsaw

How to cut a circle without drilling a hole

More often than not you’ll probably want to cut a circle without damaging the surface by drilling a hole for the pivot point. You can avoid marring the surface of your circle by first cutting a sacrificial circle.

Attach a wood blank to the sacrificial circle using double sided tape. Now you can cut a circle from the wood blank without damaging the surface.

FIND ME ONLINE!

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Hope this post inspires you to build a circle cutting jig of your own. It’s a huge time saver over using a router and much more accurate that cutting a circle with a jigsaw.

Here’s a fun little gif of the bandsaw jig in action!

The post Bandsaw Circle Cutting Jig | How to Build Tutorial appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

How to make a simple walnut cutting board with maple stripes

Hello everyone, today I’m sharing details on how to make my latest project: a walnut cutting board with maple stripes. This is a really simple cutting board to make and it’s a great way to use up leftovers from a previous project.

I have previously documented detailed steps on how to take rough sawn lumber and mill it into ready to use lumber. CLICK HERE to read my detailed tutorial on how to make a cutting board. In this post, I will skip over the milling steps.

RELATED POSTS:

• How make a Tardis End Grain Cutting Board
• How to make an End Grain Cutting Board from Scraps

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.  That means if you purchase an item via one of these links, I’ll receive a small commission at no added cost to you.  This helps keep the content on the site free and I appreciate the support! :o)

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to create the walnut and maple cutting board.

Tools

• Saw (table saw and miter saw)
• Micro Jig GRR-RIPPER (A personal table saw must have)
• FeatherPro Feather Board
• Jointer
• Planer
• Router with 45 degree chamfer router bit
• Orbital sander
• Clamps

Supplies

• Mineral Oil
• Wood Glue
• Walnut
• Maple
• Howard Butcher Block Conditioner

How to make a Walnut Cutting Board with Maple Stripes

This was a fun scrap wood project. Steps start after the boards have been milled to 3/4″ thickness.

This weekend I plan to tackle a couple scrap wood projects. I have 3 boxes full of nice scraps. My goal is to eventually get it down one box. I’m thinking I’ll start with a few cutting boards. #confessionsofascrapwoodhoarder . #scrapwood #scraps #woodworker #woodwork #woodworkers #woodworking #mfpbehindthescenes #walnut #maple #futurecuttingboard #cuttingboard #maker #makersmovement #maplecuttingboard #scrapwoodproject #walnutcuttingboard #offcuts #makersgonnamake #alabama #madeinalabama #fridaynight #makesomething #garageshop #dowoodworking #hardwood #letsdothis

A post shared by Ashley Grenon | Geeky Maker (@handmadewithashley) on Feb 16, 2018 at 3:33pm PST

Step 1: Rip the Walnut and Maple to final size

Rip the walnut into 1 1/2″ strips. Rip the maple to 1/4″ strips.

I ripped 4 pieces of walnut and 3 pieces of maple.

Step 2: Glue up the strips

Use ample amounts of glue and clamp together the walnut and maple strips.

A basic cutting board in the works. I had plans to make something a bit more interesting but my washing machine required emergency surgery today. This will scratch my cutting board itch for now. Plus I need to focus on finishing up Link too. . #scrapwood #scraps #offcuts #cuttingboard #walnut #maple #cuttingboard #longgraincuttingboard #clamps #glueup #squeezeout #kregmobileprojectcenter #parallelclamps #mobileprojectcenter #besseyclamps #woodwork #woodworker #woodworkers #woodworking #maker #makersgonnamake #makesomething #makeallthethings #dowoodworking #mfpbehindthescenes #garageshop #sawdustsaturday

A post shared by Ashley Grenon | Geeky Maker (@handmadewithashley) on Feb 17, 2018 at 1:53pm PST

Step 3: Clean up the glue lines and trim up the ends

Run the board through the planer to clean up excess glue. Trim up the ends of the cutting board on the miter saw or table saw.

Step 4: Adorn the edge of the board with a 45 degree chamfer router bit

Route around the edges of the board with a router bit to dress up the edges. I used a 45 degree chamfer router bit with ball bearings.

Walnut and maple cutting board with a 45 degree chamfer

Step 5: Sand the cutting board

Sand the cutting board cycling through grits of sand paper.  After you sand the cutting board 220 grit paper, wipe the board down with a damp cloth to raise the grain. Sand the surface on more time with 220 grit sand paper.

Step 6: Apply cutting board finish

Soak the cutting board in mineral oil. I applied two coats of mineral oil. Once it dried I followed up with a coat of Howard’s Butcher Block Conditioner.

Walnut Cutting Board with Maple Strips

I’m pretty happy with how the board came out. It’s an easy weekend project and would make a great gift too!

DIY Walnut Cutting Board with Maple Stripes

The post Walnut Cutting Board with Maple Stripes | DIY TUTORIAL appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

How to make an end grain cutting board from scraps

I recently made a Tardis end grain cutting board and I was left with many leftovers. Instead of letting them collect saw dust in the garage I decided to immediately put them to use by making another end grain cutting board.

Walnut and cherry end grain cutting board

CLICK HERE for step by step tutorial on how to make a Tardis end grain cutting board. (There’s also a YouTube video. WATCH IT HERE.)

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.  That means if you purchase an item via one of these links, I’ll receive a small commission at no added cost to you.  This helps keep the content on the site free and I appreciate the support! :o)

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies that I gathered to create the end grain cutting board.

Tools

• Saw (circular, table saw or bandsaw)
• Jointer
• Planer
• Belt sander
• Router with 1/4″ round over router bit
• Orbital sander

Supplies

• Leftover strips of walnut and cherry 3/4″ on all sides
• Wood Glue
• Sand paper – Grits 80, 100, 150, 220
• Mineral oil
• Beeswax

Watch the video tutorial

Click play and watch the video tutorial below. For more woodworking videos, CLICK HERE to subscribe to my YouTube channel.

Continue reading for the written tutorial.

How to make an end grain cutting board in 11 simple steps

1. Mill the lumber
2. Rip the board into 3/4″ strips
3. Design the cutting board layout
4. Edge glue the boards
5. Cross cut the cutting board
6. Glue the cutting board again
7. Clean up the edges
8. Add a corner radius (optional)
9. Round over the edges
10. Sand
11. Apply a food safe finish

Step 1: Mill the lumber

Typically when you purchase hardwood from the sawmill, the hardwood is rough sawn.  Rough saw lumber is not flat or surfaced on all four sides. I used my jointer to surface one face and one edge of the each board. I used the planer to surface the other face and planed each board to the same thickness. For more details and photos on the process check out my tutorial on how to make a cutting board.

Step 2: Rip the boards into 3/4″ strips

Once the boards are milled, move the the table saw to rip each board into 3/4″ strips.

Step 3: Design the cutting board layout

Think of how you would like the end grain cutting board to look and select the order of how the strips should be glued together.

I chose the following pattern:

• Walnut
• Cherry
• Cherry
• Walnut
• Cherry
• Cherry
• Walnut

Step 4: Edge glue the boards

Apply wood glue to the boards and clamp the strips together. Follow your wood glue instructions for cure times.

1. Select a design for the cutting board. 2. Edge glue the cutting board together.

Step 5: Cross cut the cutting board

Once the glue has dried, it is time to make more cuts for the cutting board. This time cross cut the board into 2″ wide pieces. I made these cuts on my bandsaw, but the job can be done on the table saw with a cross cut sled.

I love my bandsaw. Although, the more I use it the more I wish I had a slightly larger one. . Making a cross cutting sled for the table saw is still on the todo list, but I really wanted to make some more progress on this cutting board so used the bandsaw. . #bandsaw #grizzlybandsaw #favoritetool #g0555lx #mfpbehindthescenes #garage #garageshop #wood #crosscut #endgraincuttingboard #woodworker #woodwork #dowoodworking #walnut #maple @grizzlyindustrial #woodslicer #woodslicerblade #lunchtimewoodworking

A post shared by Ashley Grenon | DIY Blogger (@handmadewithashley) on Jul 12, 2017 at 10:24am PDT

Step 6: Glue cutting board again

Select an arrangement for the new cutting board pieces. Glue and clamp the pieces together. I went back and forth between several designs before settling on the final one.

Selecting a cutting board design for the end grain cutting board

Step 7: Clean up the edges

Once the glue has cured, trim up the edges on a table saw.

Step 8: Add a corner radius (optional)

Add a corner radius to the cutting board. There are few ways to do this. I used a belt sander.

Alternatively you could:

• Use a router with a corner radius jig
• Cut a corner radius with a bandsaw or jigsaw

Step 9: Round over the edges

Grab router and equip it with a 1/4″ round over router bit with bearing. Route all four sides of the top and bottom of the cutting board.

Step 10: Sand

Sanding end grain can take a while. If the board surface is very uneven from the glue up, you may want to consider creating a router flattening jig to clean the surface of the cutting board prior to final sanding. I created a flattening jig for my Tardis end grain cutting board.

Cycle through grits 80 – 220 on the orbital sander. Wipe down the cutting board with a damp cloth to raise the grain.  Allow it to dry a little before a final sanding with 220 grit sand paper. This should leave the cutting board surface smooth.

Step 11: Apply a food safe finish.

Applying a finish is the fun part. Watching the wood color come to life once you apply the oil is a very exciting step.  I finished my cutting board with mineral.  I applied several layers until the cutting board no longer absorbed it.

My favorite step in every cutting board project: applying a finish. This is the first coat of mineral oil. (Swipe for video.) . #endgrain #endgraincuttingboard #scrapwood #scrapwoodcuttingboard #kregmobileprojectcenter #mobileprojectcenter #mineraloil #cherry #walnut #woodwork #woodworking #woodworker #dowoodworking #mfpbehindthescenes #diy #cuttingboard #sawdustsaturday #rainyday #almostdone

A post shared by Ashley Grenon | DIY Blogger (@handmadewithashley) on Jul 15, 2017 at 3:40pm PDT

DIY End Grain Cutting Board

Enjoy your new cutting board or gift it to a family member or friend. They make wonderful handmade gifts.

Handmade gift – Walnut and Cherry end grain cutting board | How To Tutorial

Handmade gift – Walnut and Cherry end grain cutting board | How To Tutorial

(I also made a long grain cutting board from my Tardis scraps.  Check out my previous tutorial on how to make a simple cutting board.)

I’m linking up to:

• Remodelaholic

The post How to make an End Grain Cutting Board from Scraps appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

How to build a mobile lathe stand

Hello everyone! Today I’m sharing how I built a mobile stand for my lathe. I originally wanted to build a lathe stand that was perfect for my height but somewhere along the lines I butchered the math. (No worries, I’ll just use a platform to make up the difference.) The design of my lathe stand was inspired by one of the lathe stands I spotted in @onionwood’s shop.  @onionwood is an incredibly talented woodturner and instructor.  I highly recommend you take a moment to check out her Instagram page and see her work.

Now, let’s get started!

I finished my lathe stand. Yay! The design for this stand was inspired by one of the lathe stands built by @onionwood. (and if you haven’t checked out @onionwood’s profile you should ) I’ll add a few hooks and tool storage to it soon. . Maybe when I’m ready to upgrade my lathe I’ll build a version 2 with the correct math. . #lathestand #mobilelathestand #diy #dowoodworking #woodwork #woodworker #woodworking #woodcraft #woodturning #woodturner #lathe #harborfreight #centralmachinery #harborfreightlathe #kregjig #diyhalloffame #pocketholes #garage #garageshop

A post shared by Ashley Grenon (@handmadewithashley) on Jun 12, 2017 at 6:13pm PDT

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.  That means if you purchase an item via one of these links, I’ll receive a small commission at no added cost to you.  This helps keep the content on the site free and I appreciate the support! :o)

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies that I gathered to build my mobile lathe stand.

Tools

• Kreg Jig K5
• Clamps
• Drill / Driver
• Saw

Supplies

• 2x4x8 (4)
• 2x6x8 (2)
• Wood glue
• 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws
• 3″ swivel caster wheels with brakes (4)
• Screws (12) and washers (12) for the caster wheels

Cut List

• 2×4 – 29″ (3) Bottom Shelf
• 2×4 – 24″ (2) Leg Base
• 2×4 – 12″ (2) Leg Top
• 2×4 – 29 1/2″ (4) Legs with 12 degree bevel
• 2×6 – 29″ (2) Top Shelf
• 2×6 – 13″ with 12 degree miter short point to short point (2) Leg braces
• 2×6 – 32 3/4″ (1) Main Brace

I had a ton of 2×4 and 2×6 scraps, and I was able to build my stand without a lumber trip. (Scrap wood projects FTW!)

Boards cut to size

You should adjust these measurements to suit your height (or use a platform to increase your height). Measure the length from your elbow to the ground. This is the height at which your lathe’s center to be.

How to Build a Mobile Lathe Stand

Step 1: Cut all the boards to size

Follow the cut list and cut the 2×4 and 2×6 boards down to final size.

Now, in hindsight I also wished I took the time to ensure my boards were square with my jointer and planer. I skipped this step because I was lazy and I reasoned this shortcut was acceptable because this is a shop project. When I began to assemble the base, I regretted the decision. However, in the end (and with the help of many clamps) it all worked out.

Step 2: Drill pocket holes

With a pocket hole jig drill pocket holes into:

• Each end of the bottom shelf boards
• Each end of the top shelf boards
• Each end of the table legs
• Each end of the leg braces

Drilling pocket holes with the Kreg Jig K5

Step 3: Assemble the legs

Grab the table legs, leg base and leg top to assemble the legs of the mobile stand.  The assembled leg should look like a trapezoid.

1. Screw the table legs on top the table leg base (2×4 – 24″)
2. Screw the table legs underneath the table leg top (2×4 – 12″)

Assembling legs

Apply glue between the joints.

Step 4: Attach the top shelf supports

Join the top shelf supports (2×6 – 29″) to the table legs.

Step 5: Attach the bottom shelf supports.

Join the bottom shelf supports (2×4 – 29″) to the table legs.

Step 6: Attach the leg braces

Join the leg braces (2×6 – 13″) to the table legs.

Assembling lathe stand

Assembling lathe stand

Step 7: Attach the main brace

Attach the main brace (2×6 – 32 3/4″) to the two leg braces.

Step 8: Install the caster wheels

Drill pilot holes for the caster wheel screws and install one caster in each corner of the mobile lathe stand with screws and matching washers.

Step 9: Drill holes for the lathe’s feet (optional)

Move the lathe to the stand and trace an outline of the lathe’s feet.  Remove the lathe from the stand and drill holes with a Forstner bit about an 1/8″ deep for each foot. This is an optional step but I think it will prevent the lathe from sliding around on top of the stand.

Step 10: Enjoy!

Install hooks and other accessories and enjoy having a lathe on wheels!

DIY Mobile Lathe Stand

DIY Mobile Lathe Stand

If you build the mobile lathe stand, please leave a comment below or tag me on Instagram @handmadewithashley or Twitter @handmadewithash.   I’d love to see your pictures!

Reader Projects

@sayit_aint_tone727 built a scaled up version of the lathe stand:

Reader Project: DIY Mobile Lathe Stand

And check out @hubbellwoodworks version of the lathe stand:

View this post on Instagram

Made a simple stand for my lathe out of scrap wood. It’s on casters, too =) #lathe #lathestand #woodworking #woodworkingcommunity #wen #wentools #diy #hubbellwoodworks

A post shared by HubbellWoodworks (@hubbellwoodworks) on Jan 28, 2019 at 9:17pm PST

Thanks for sharing!

The post DIY Mobile Lathe Stand appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Fairy Light Globe

Hello everyone! Happy new year! Today I want to share my final DIY project from 2016: a fairy light globe. I got this project idea from Linn of Darbin Orvar.  You can find her full tutorial here.  I deviated from her original tutorial a little.  I share the details below.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following list are the tools and supplies I gathered to make the fairy light globe.

• Glass Ornament Balls (80 mm)
• Micro LED String Lights
• Scrap 2×4
• Jar of steel wool and vinegar (a homemade wood stain)
• Mineral oil
• Center finder
• Drill press
• Forstner bits
• Router with a 45 degree chamfer bit
• Hot glue gun

I used 80 mm balls instead of the original 100 mm because they were cheaper. The lights I used are powered by 2 CR2032 batteries instead of 3 AA batteries.  The smaller battery pack makes it easier to conceal.

How to make the Fairy LED Globe

Step 1: Cut off a square piece of 2×4

I didn’t have any pretty hardwood on hand, but I do have of ton of 2×4 cut offs. I cut off a 3 1/2″ piece for the globe base.

Step 2: Drill holes for the ornament and battery pack

1. Mark the center of the 2×4 on both sides.
2. Drill a small hole through the entire piece of wood for stringing the lights.
3. Drill a hole on the top with a width matching the top of the glass ornament.
4. Drill a hole on the bottom with a diameter of 2 1/4″.

The opening on the bottom side should be wide enough to hold the battery pack (assuming you purchase the same lights as I did).

First project with the new drill press

A hole for the ornament

A hole for the battery pack

Step 3: Add a chamfer to the edges

The 2×4 looks pretty brand. To remedy that, I used my trim router equipped with a 45 degree chamfer bit to dress up the edges.

I routed all the edges on the top and bottom sides.

Routing the edges

Step 4: Sand

Sand the entire surface to prep it for staining.

Step 5: Apply a stain and seal the wood

I had a jar of steel wood and vinegar brewing in the garage for months.  I used an old cloth and applied two coats of the mixture.

Jar of steel wool and vinegar

After applying the homemade stain

I sealed it with two coats of mineral oil.

Step 6: Install the lights

I don’t deviate much from here on. I stringed the micro lights through the hole in the 2×4 base and into the glass ornament.  I used my hot glue gun to secure the glass ornament into the base.

Installing the micro lights

The battery pack fits snuggly in the bottom hole. It stays in place.

DIY Fairy Light Globe

I love how this project turned out, and I plan to make a few more.  It really feels a bit magical.

DIY Fairy Light Globe

DIY Fairy Light Globe

The post DIY Fairy Light Globe appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Stuffed Animal Zoo Tower

Last weekend, I built another stuffed animal zoo tower.  I followed Ana White’s plans for the zoo tower.  This is a pretty easy DIY that you can complete in one weekend. Follow along for details for project details!

The kid approves!

(For sneak peeks on upcoming projects follow me on Facebook and Instagram!)

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to build the stuffed animal zoo tower.  For a complete listing of what’s required, check out Ana White’s plans.

• 2x2x8 (2)
• 1x2x8 (2) (I used this instead of the 1×3 listed in the plans.  I did not want to purchase new lumber for the project.)
• Brad nailer
• Japanese Handsaw (with saw guide)
• 50′ 3-ply jute twine
• #10 screw eyes (24)
• Super glue (for securing the rope knot)
• Watco’s Danish Oil (Medium Walnut) (This was my first time using Danish Oil.  I really enjoyed using the finish!)
• Cloth applicator

I did not own my brad nailer when I built the first stuffed animal zoo tower.  Oh wow, what a difference that made (compared to using a hammer)!

Building the Stuffed Animal Zoo Tower

Step 1: Cut the boards to the appropriate lengths

First up, I cut the 2×2 and 1×2 boards down the the correct sizes with my Japanese handsaw and guide.

Boards cut with a handsaw

Step 2: Assemble the zoo tower

Next, I assembled the zoo tower.  I used a brad nailer and wood glue to attach the boards.

Nailing the boards together

Zoo tower assembled

Step 3: Sand the tower and prep it for staining (or painting)

Sand the surface of the tower. (Sanding is always my least favorite part of a project!)

Step 4: Stain and seal the tower

I used Watco Danish Oil in Medium Walnut.  This was  my first time using Danish Oil and I really enjoyed applying the finish. It stains and seals in a single step.  The color is a bit too light for my preferences. I should have selected the dark walnut.

Watco Danish Oil (Medium Walnut)

One coat of Watco Danish Oil (Medium Walnut)

Step 5:  Screw in the screw eyes

Once the finished dried, I installed the screw eyes.  A pair of pliers was necessary to get the job done.

Screw eyes

Installing screw eyes

Step 6:  Add the rope

For the final step, I threaded the jute twine through the screw eyes.  I sealed the knot with super glue.

50′ 3-ply jute twine

DAP Rapid Fuse

DIY Stuffed Animal Zoo Tower

There is finally order for my young one’s stuffed animal collection.  (Seriously though, I think half of the stuffed animals are my own.)

DIY Stuffed Animal Toy Storage

The little guy approves!

The post DIY Stuffed Animal Zoo Tower (Plans by Ana White) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

Build a Star Wars TIE Fighter Bookshelf

Since the release of The Force Awakens, whenever I brainstorm new project ideas a Star Wars related idea always comes up! Today’s project just so happens to be another Star Wars themed project; it’s a TIE fighter bookshelf!   I was able to make use of some scrap lumber I already owned.  Paint was the only item I purchased for the project.  Everything else I had on hand.  Follow along and build one for yourself or the Star Wars fan in your life.

And, if you like this DIY, check out my tutorial for a Star Wars Marquee Wall Art Sign!

DIY Star Wars Marquee Wall Art Sign

Or this tutorial on how to make a BB-8 push toy!

BB-8 Push Toy in action!

A TIE fighter bookshelf

TIE Fighter Bookshelf

Star Wars Bookshelf

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to create the TIE fighter bookshelf.

Tools

• Circular saw
• Jigsaw
• Kreg Jig (for joining boards, love this tool)
• JawHorse (for securing the lumber for cutting, it’s an awesome 2nd pair of hands)
• Ruler / Straight edge
• Orbital Sander

Supplies

• Scrap lumber
  • 3/4 thick plywood 13 inches x 26 inches
  • 1×8 board 48 inches long
• Gray paint (1 pint)
• Black paint (1 pint)
• 1″ thick painter’s tape
• 1/2″ thick washi tape (I used this in place of painter’s tape)
• Wood glue
• Wood filler
• 1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws

How to build a TIE Fighter Bookshelf

One of my goals for 2016 is to learn how to use SketchUp so I can share pretty woodworking plans and diagrams.

Step 1:  Cut the wood to the appropriate sizes

First up, take the piece of plywood and cut it in half.  You should have two 13 inch squares.  I used my mini circular with a track guide to cut the plywood down to the appropriate lengths.

You will also cut the 1×8 board in half.  This will leave you with two pieces at 24 inches long.

Cutting the plywood in half

Step 2:  Cut out the TIE fighter wing shape

The TIE fighter wings are shaped sorta like a hexagon.  I used a jigsaw to cut out the shape.  Draw a few lines on the pieces of plywood to mark where the jigsaw blade should follow along.

1. Draw a line from the mid-point of each side
2. Measure 2 inches from a corner, and create a line from that point to a mid-point

Cutting out the TIE fighter wings with a jigsaw

Step 3:  Drill pocket holes.

I really like pocket hole joints. They’re really easy to make and very sturdy.  I used my Kreg Jig to create several pocket holes.

• I created 3 pocket holes on the length of one of the 1×8 boards.
• I created 2 pocket holes on each side of the 1×8 boards.

Creating pocket holes with my Kreg Jig

Step 4:  Sand the lumber!

Spend some time cycling through different grits of sand paper.   I used my orbital sander equiped with sandpaper grits of 60, 80, 100, 120, and 220.

Step 5:  Paint the bookshelf

Once sanding is complete, prime the bookshelf.  Once the primer is dry, paint the shelf with a base coat of gray.

Painting the TIE Fighter Wings

1. With the 1 inch painter’s tape, tape the border of the TIE fighter wing.
2. Use the tape to connect opposing corners
3. Use the tape to create a small hexagon-like shape at the intersection of all the tape lines
4. Cover the uncovered areas with black paint

Repeat these steps for each side of the wings.

Painting the TIE Fighter Cockpit

1. Draw the shape of a semi-circle in the center of the 1×8 boards.
   • Imagine the boards are joined at 90 degrees, the circle’s midpoint is at the center of the joint
   • When the boards are joined, one side will be 3/4 longer than the other
   • On the board that does not have pocket holes lengthwise, offset the semi-circle by 3/4 inch.
2. Draw the shape of a octagon in the center of the previously drawn circle
   • On the board that does not have pocket holes lengthwise, offset the octagon by 3/4 inch as well.
3. With 1/2 thick painter’s tape (I actually used some washi tape) mask off from each point on the octagon to the outer circle.   (See picture below)
4. Paint the uncovered areas within the circle with black paint

The diameter of the outer circle is 10″.  The width of the inner octagon is 4 1/4″ and the length of each side is 1 5/8″.

You could skip this step because books will probably cover the cockpit, but I think it adds a really nice touch.

Painting the TIE fighter bookshelf

Step 6:  Assemble the shelf

You can assemble the shelf before painting.  I painted half, then assembled and painted the remaining half.

Join the 1×8 boards at 90 degrees.  Attach the shelf to each wing.  I winged it on joining the shelf to wings.

I covered my pocket holes with wood filler, but pocket holes are not visible from the front.

Joining the shelf to the TIE fighter wings

Step 7:  Seal the project

Finally, coat the shelf with your favorite sealer.

The TIE Fighter Bookshelf

The bookshelf cost me roughly 7 bucks!  That was the cost of the paint.  This was great use of some leftover lumber and it’s bringing a bit of much needed order to my son’s book collection.

If you build a TIE fighter bookshelf, please leave a comment below or tag me on Instagram @handmadewithashley or Twitter @handmadewithash.   I’d love to see your pictures!

DIY TIE Fighter Bookshelf

Build a TIE Fighter bookshelf

TIE Fighter Bookshelf

Star Wars TIE Fighter Bookshelf

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DIY Star Wars Bookshelf Tutorial

Check out my other Star Wars themed projects!

I’m linking up to:

• The DIY Showoff
• Home Stories A to Z
• Remodelaholic
• Tater Tots and Jello

Reader Projects

Tie Fighter bookshelves are perfect for DVD storage. Made enough pieces for 2 more, just saying….. Visit @handmadewithash for tutorial. #265design #starwars #tiefighter

A photo posted by J.Cammarata (@265design) on Sep 9, 2016 at 6:16pm PDT

The post How to build a Star Wars TIE Fighter Bookshelf (Tutorial) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Christmas Tree Address Sign

I have a huge pile of scrap wood that grows larger by the day.  I was really excited to see Sandra over at the Sawdust Girl create a sCrap wood challenge!  I love challenges! I have no greater motivator for get things done.

My submission for the sCrap wood challenge is a Christmas Tree address sign.  I built this from a leftover piece of cedar picket fence.   In this post, I’ll go over the steps I took to create the sign.

Christmas tree address sign

Tree ready for it’s outdoor debut!

Wooden Christmas Tree Address Sign

Disclosure:  This post contains affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

Here’s a list of the tools and supplies I used to create the sign.

• 6 ft Cedar Picket Fence (or a scrap piece of 1×12 board ~3 ft long)
• Wood Glue
• Scroll Saw
• Orbital Sander
• Acrylic Craft Paints (I used Delta Ceramcoat)
• Mod Podge
• Scrapbook Paper
• 1 inch circle paper punch

How to Make the Address Sign

This is a super easy project that you could knock out in on afternoon.

Step 1:  Cut the picket fence in half and edge to edge join the boards.

First up, cut the cedar picket fence in half.  Apply glue to the long edge of one half and clamp the two halves together creating a ~11 inch wide board.

Edge to edge joint of the cedar halves

Step 2:  Draw the outline of a Christmas tree onto the board.

Next up, sketch a quick outline of a Christmas onto the board.  I started out with a triangle and from there flushed out the details.  Also, trace the outline of the address numbers onto the board.  I used Arial Bold.

Drawing the shapes

Step 3:  Cut out the tree  and numbers with a jigsaw or a scroll saw.

Once the lines are drawn, you’re ready to cut! I used my scroll saw to cut out the shapes.  My saw was equiped with a Flying Dutchman spiral scroll saw blade and it cut the cedar like butter.

Scrolling out the shapes

Step 4:  Sand!

Take a moment and sand down the pieces.  I cycled through grits 60, 100 and 120 with my orbital sander.

Sanding the shapes with an orbital sander

Step 5:  Paint the tree and the numbers.

Next up, paint the tree with acrylic craft paints.  I used Delta Ceramcoat colors.  This line of craft paints is my favorite because of the quality compared to other brands that I have tried.  The base coat of the tree is Spring Green (02517) and the numbers are painted with Tompte Red (02107).

Painting the tree

Step 6:  Add paper ornaments.

For some added sparkle, cut 1 inch wide circles from glitter scrapbook paper and glue it to the tree.  I used Mod Podge to seal the paper and attach it to the tree.

Paper punching glitter scrapbook paper

Steps 7 & 8:  Attach the numbers and seal the project!

Finally, attach the wooden numbers to the tree ( I used  wood glue), and seal the wooden tree.

Tree ready for it’s outdoor debut!

The toddler is digging the address sign

DIY Christmas Tree Address Sign

The post DIY Christmas Tree Address Sign (Scrap Wood Challenge) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.