DIY Junior Loft Bed (Plans by Ana White)

I assisted a friend in building a loft bed for her daughter.  We followed free plans by Ana White for the junior loft bed. We made a few modifications such as changing it to fit a full-sized mattress (more details down below). The loft bed is the largest furniture item that I have built thus far. I have learned a lot from working on the project. In this post, I’ll share the steps we took to build it.

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Homemade junior loft bed

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.  That means if you purchase an item via one of these links, I’ll receive a small commission at no added cost to you.  This helps keep the content on the site free and I appreciate the support! :o) For more details read my disclosure policy.

Tools and Materials

The following items are some of the tools and supplies we gathered to build the junior loft bed.  For a complete listing of what is needed to build the loft bed check out Ana White’s free plan.

Tools

• Circular saw
• Kreg Jig
• Kreg Mobile Project Center (I love this workbench)
• Clamps
• Belt sander
• Orbital sander
• Drill / Driver

Materials

• Bed rail brackets (knockdown hardware)
• Pocket hole screws
• Behr White paint

How to build a Loft Bed

Continue reading for in progress photos, modifications to the original plans and lessons learned from building the junior loft bed.

3 Modifications to the original plan

1. The biggest modification made to the original loft bed plans was adjusting the size to fit a full-sized mattress instead of the twin mattress. In addition to increasing the length of the bed, we added a 2×6 board to the middle of the bed for extra mattress support.
2. The other major modification we made was using knockdown hardware instead of pocket hole joints for connecting the bed together.  We wanted this bed to be something that could be assembled and disassembled easily because the bed was built at my home but needed to be transported to another.
3. The final modification made to the project was using 4×4 posts instead of 2×4 posts. This added additional stability to the bed.

Building the loft bed

We used pocket hole joinery to bed most of the bed. I used the Kreg Jig K5 to create the pocket holes. For the bed rails and mattress support, we used bed rail brackets.  I purchased 6 pairs of bed rail brackets as well as a bracket for the center mattress support board. The center support is a 2×6 board cut the same length as the bed rails. This board was not included in the original plans. We added it to support the additional weight of the full-sized mattress.

Building the junior loft bed with a mixture of pocket hole joinery with the Kreg Jig and knockdown hardware with the bed rail brackets.

We painted the bed with white paint and sealed with a satin finish. We used a paint roller. (I think we regretted not using a paint sprayer.)

Painting the junior loft bed with white paint

The kid approved of the new bed.

(The stairs were completed after the bed was delivered to the home. Originally we used nails to hold the steps in place.  This did not hold up for long and screws were used to secure the steps.)

Homemade junior loft bed

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DIY Junior Loft Bed | Free Woodworking Plans by ANA WHITE

The post DIY Loft Bed (Plans by Ana White) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

How to build a mobile lathe stand

Hello everyone! Today I’m sharing how I built a mobile stand for my lathe. I originally wanted to build a lathe stand that was perfect for my height but somewhere along the lines I butchered the math. (No worries, I’ll just use a platform to make up the difference.) The design of my lathe stand was inspired by one of the lathe stands I spotted in @onionwood’s shop.  @onionwood is an incredibly talented woodturner and instructor.  I highly recommend you take a moment to check out her Instagram page and see her work.

Now, let’s get started!

I finished my lathe stand. Yay! The design for this stand was inspired by one of the lathe stands built by @onionwood. (and if you haven’t checked out @onionwood’s profile you should ) I’ll add a few hooks and tool storage to it soon. . Maybe when I’m ready to upgrade my lathe I’ll build a version 2 with the correct math. . #lathestand #mobilelathestand #diy #dowoodworking #woodwork #woodworker #woodworking #woodcraft #woodturning #woodturner #lathe #harborfreight #centralmachinery #harborfreightlathe #kregjig #diyhalloffame #pocketholes #garage #garageshop

A post shared by Ashley Grenon (@handmadewithashley) on Jun 12, 2017 at 6:13pm PDT

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.  That means if you purchase an item via one of these links, I’ll receive a small commission at no added cost to you.  This helps keep the content on the site free and I appreciate the support! :o)

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies that I gathered to build my mobile lathe stand.

Tools

• Kreg Jig K5
• Clamps
• Drill / Driver
• Saw

Supplies

• 2x4x8 (4)
• 2x6x8 (2)
• Wood glue
• 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws
• 3″ swivel caster wheels with brakes (4)
• Screws (12) and washers (12) for the caster wheels

Cut List

• 2×4 – 29″ (3) Bottom Shelf
• 2×4 – 24″ (2) Leg Base
• 2×4 – 12″ (2) Leg Top
• 2×4 – 29 1/2″ (4) Legs with 12 degree bevel
• 2×6 – 29″ (2) Top Shelf
• 2×6 – 13″ with 12 degree miter short point to short point (2) Leg braces
• 2×6 – 32 3/4″ (1) Main Brace

I had a ton of 2×4 and 2×6 scraps, and I was able to build my stand without a lumber trip. (Scrap wood projects FTW!)

Boards cut to size

You should adjust these measurements to suit your height (or use a platform to increase your height). Measure the length from your elbow to the ground. This is the height at which your lathe’s center to be.

How to Build a Mobile Lathe Stand

Step 1: Cut all the boards to size

Follow the cut list and cut the 2×4 and 2×6 boards down to final size.

Now, in hindsight I also wished I took the time to ensure my boards were square with my jointer and planer. I skipped this step because I was lazy and I reasoned this shortcut was acceptable because this is a shop project. When I began to assemble the base, I regretted the decision. However, in the end (and with the help of many clamps) it all worked out.

Step 2: Drill pocket holes

With a pocket hole jig drill pocket holes into:

• Each end of the bottom shelf boards
• Each end of the top shelf boards
• Each end of the table legs
• Each end of the leg braces

Drilling pocket holes with the Kreg Jig K5

Step 3: Assemble the legs

Grab the table legs, leg base and leg top to assemble the legs of the mobile stand.  The assembled leg should look like a trapezoid.

1. Screw the table legs on top the table leg base (2×4 – 24″)
2. Screw the table legs underneath the table leg top (2×4 – 12″)

Assembling legs

Apply glue between the joints.

Step 4: Attach the top shelf supports

Join the top shelf supports (2×6 – 29″) to the table legs.

Step 5: Attach the bottom shelf supports.

Join the bottom shelf supports (2×4 – 29″) to the table legs.

Step 6: Attach the leg braces

Join the leg braces (2×6 – 13″) to the table legs.

Assembling lathe stand

Assembling lathe stand

Step 7: Attach the main brace

Attach the main brace (2×6 – 32 3/4″) to the two leg braces.

Step 8: Install the caster wheels

Drill pilot holes for the caster wheel screws and install one caster in each corner of the mobile lathe stand with screws and matching washers.

Step 9: Drill holes for the lathe’s feet (optional)

Move the lathe to the stand and trace an outline of the lathe’s feet.  Remove the lathe from the stand and drill holes with a Forstner bit about an 1/8″ deep for each foot. This is an optional step but I think it will prevent the lathe from sliding around on top of the stand.

Step 10: Enjoy!

Install hooks and other accessories and enjoy having a lathe on wheels!

DIY Mobile Lathe Stand

DIY Mobile Lathe Stand

If you build the mobile lathe stand, please leave a comment below or tag me on Instagram @handmadewithashley or Twitter @handmadewithash.   I’d love to see your pictures!

Reader Projects

@sayit_aint_tone727 built a scaled up version of the lathe stand:

Reader Project: DIY Mobile Lathe Stand

And check out @hubbellwoodworks version of the lathe stand:

View this post on Instagram

Made a simple stand for my lathe out of scrap wood. It’s on casters, too =) #lathe #lathestand #woodworking #woodworkingcommunity #wen #wentools #diy #hubbellwoodworks

A post shared by HubbellWoodworks (@hubbellwoodworks) on Jan 28, 2019 at 9:17pm PST

Thanks for sharing!

The post DIY Mobile Lathe Stand appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

Watch the Instagram video below to see it in action!

My jointer is now mobile. I made my first half lap joint on this project. That was a little more time consuming than I had anticipated. . #weedendproject #shopupgrade #ridgid #teamridgid #ridgidjointer #jointer #orange #garage #garageshop #halflap #halflapjoint #sawdustsaturday #weekendwoodworking #saturday #woodworker #woodworking #dowoodworking

A post shared by Ashley Grenon (@handmadewithashley) on Apr 8, 2017 at 2:05pm PDT

While building this project, I made my first half lap joint! I felt the half lap joint would be a nice sturdy joint for the base.  So without further ado, let’s get started with the tutorial!

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.  If you purchase an item via one of these links, I’ll receive a small commission at no added cost to you.  This helps keep the content on the site free and I appreciate the support!

Tools and Supplies

To build the jointer base, I gathered the following tools and supplies:

Tools

• Circular saw or table saw
• Drill Press with 2″ Forstner Drill Bit
• Clamps
• Chisels
• 4 swivel caster wheels with brakes

Supplies

• Wood glue
• 2×4 (1)

Cut List

• 30 1/2″ (2) – A
• 13 1/8″ (2) – B

Building a Ridgid Jointer Mobile Base

Step 1: Cut lumber to size

2×4 board cut to size

Cut the 2×4 into 4 pieces:

• 30 1/2″ (2) – A
• 13 1/8″ (2) – B

Step 2: Drill holes of the jointer feet

Holes drilled for jointer feet

1. Grab the pair of 13 1/8″ boards (part B).
2. Mark a dialog line from the corners.
3. Drill a 2″ hole a 1/4″ deep centered where the dialogs interesect.

Step 3: Cut half laps

Cut half laps with your method of choice.  I used a circular saw and chisel.  I did not enjoy making half laps with this method. It was very time consuming and tiring, but despite that I am glad I had the chance to experience creating half laps with that method.  However, next time I using my router.

Half lap joint with a circular saw and chisel

Step 4: Assemble base

Apply wood glue between the joints and use clamps to apply pressure.  Let the glue dry completely before removing the clamps.

Gluing and clamping mobile base

Jointer base ready for caster wheel installation

Step 5: Install caster wheels

3″ Swivel caster wheels with brakes

Install 3″ swivel caster wheels with brakes at each corner of the base.

Casters installed and base complete!

DIY Ridgid Jointer Mobile Base

If you build the mobile base, please leave a comment below or tag me on Instagram @handmadewithashley or Twitter @handmadewithash.   I’d love to see your pictures!

DIY Ridgid Jointer Mobile Base

DIY Ridgid Jointer Mobile Base

DIY Ridgid Jointer Mobile Base

The post DIY Ridgid Jointer Mobile Base appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Rustic Console Tutorial

Hello, everyone! Today I want to share with you my latest creation: a rustic console!  This is a pretty easy build that you could knock out in couple weekends.  Follow along for steps on how to build one of your own!

Rustic Console model

(For sneak peeks on upcoming projects follow me on Facebook and Instagram!)

DIY Rustic Console

Disclosure:  This post contains some affiliate links.

Tools and Supplies

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to build the rustic console:

Tools

• Handsaw (or any saw of your choice)
• Jigsaw
• Kreg Jig
• Drill
• Driver
• Orbital sander
• Belt sander
• Various clamps

Supplies

• ECOS Paints Woodshield Stain (Pine Needles)
• ECOS Paints Woodshield Varnish (Satin)
• Various grits of sandpaper
• Foam brushes

Lumber

• 1x6x10 (3)
• 1x4x10 (3)
• 1x8x6 (1)
• 1x2x8 (1)

My current passenger. #diy #woodworking

A photo posted by Ashley Grenon (@handmadewithashley) on Mar 11, 2016 at 8:43am PST

The estimated price of all the supplies and lumber is roughly $150.

Cut List

• A) 1×2 – 14 1/2″ (4)
• B) 1×4 – 43 1/4″ (2)
• C) 1×4 – 43″ (2)
• D) 1×4 – 28 3/4″ (4)
• E) 1×4 – 14 1/4″ (2)
• F) 1×6 – 48″ (2)
• G) 1×6 – 43 1/4″ (4)
• H) 1×8 – 48″ (1)

Lumber cut into the appropriate sizes

How to build a Rustic Console

For this project, I finally sat down and learned how to create models in SketchUp!  You can download the PDF woodworking plans for the console here.

If you’re interested in learning SketchUp, I highly recommend the video tutorials by Matthias at Woodworking for Engineers.

Step 1:  Taper the table legs (optional)

If you would like to add a little flair to your console, taper the ends of each table leg (board D) with a jigsaw.

Tapering the table legs with a jigsaw

Step 2:  Create pocket holes

I used a Kreg Jig pocket hole system for a majority of the joints in this project.  Drill pocket holes in the locations indicated on the diagrams.

Drilling pocket holes

Step 3:  Assemble the console legs.

Assemble the table legs

To form a pair of table legs, sandwich board E between boards D.  Offset board E 1″ from the edge of board D.  Repeat.

Assembling the table legs

Step 4: Connect the pair of legs with an apron

Attach the aprons

Connect the pair of legs together with boards C.  This will form the frame of the console.

Rustic console frame

Step 5: Attach shelf supports

Attach the shelf supports

Attach the shelf supports (boards A) to each pair of legs.  Attach the shelf supports adjacent to the inside edge of the table leg pairs.  The first set of shelf supports are placed 13 3/4″ from the top of the leg.  The second set of shelf supports are placed 25 1//2″ from the top of the leg.

Attaching the shelf supports

Step 6: Edge join the console shelves

Create the top shelf by edge joining boards F and H together.  Board H should be in the middle.

Create the two lower shelves by joining boards G and B together.  Board B should be in the middle.

Gluing up the shelves

If neccessary, use a belt sander to smooth down the  joints.

Step 7:  Attach the console frame to the top shelf

Attach the top shelf

Attach the top shelf to the console frame.

Attaching the top shelf

Step 8:  Attach the lower shelves to the console frame

Attach the lower shelves

Attaching the lower shelves

I made some great progress on the console. Up next: sanding! Has anyone used a scraper? I think I may try one in the future. #woodworking #diy #warpedwood #kregjig #buildallthethings #buildsomething #wood #furniture #diyblogger #diyfurniture

A photo posted by Ashley Grenon (@handmadewithashley) on Mar 15, 2016 at 9:42am PDT

Step 9: Sand, stain and seal!

Thoroughly sand the console.  Use your favorite stain and sealer to finish the console.

Staining the rustic console

I used ECOS Paints Woodshield stain (Pine Needles) and satin sealer.

DIY Rustic Console

If you build a rustic console, please leave a comment below or tag me on Instagram @handmadewithashley or Twitter @handmadewithash.   I’d love to see your pictures!

DIY Rustic Console

DIY Rustic Console

DIY Rustic Console

DIY Rustic Console

The post DIY Rustic Console Tutorial (FREE Plans) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

May’s Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest – Chevron Barstool makeover with Country Chic paints

I had a barstool sitting in my garage collecting dust for the past year.  It was a cheap generic barstool and the result of a failed furniture flip.  (I did a poor job prepping the surface and the paint peeled.)

Before the second flip

I decided to revist the project for this month’s Fab Furniture Flippin contest.

Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest

The Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest is a monthly furniture decorating contest.  Each month there is a new theme and a new sponsor.  May’s theme is “bling bling,” and May’s sponsor is Country Chic Paint!

Country Chic Paints

Country Chic Paints are eco-friendly, and designed for people who love to refinish furniture and home decor!

Our fab hosts

May’s fab hosts are Carrie from Thirty Eight Street and Thea from Sweet Tea Refinishings. Our fab hosts kicked off this month’s contest with blinged pieces of their own. Be sure to check out Carrie’s and Thea’s furniture flips. If you are a blogger and you are interested in participating in future contests, please send an email to info@fabfurnitureflippincontest.com.

Fab Flipping the Barstool

Here are the steps I took to updated the look of the barstool.

Step 1:  Prep the surface of the stool

First up, I sanded the surface of the stool with 220 grit sand paper removing.  I followed up a coat of primer.

Prepping forthe barstool makeover

Step 2:  Paint the surface with a base coat

Next up I applied two layers of Country Chic Paint’s All-in-One Decor paint.  I used Sea Storm.  The paint was easy to apply and I love the color of the blue.

Painting the stool with Sea Storm Country Chic Paint

Step 3:  Paint the feet of the stool

I really like this little touch.  Tape off about 2 inches from the bottom of each leg, and paint the “feet” with the metallic cream.  I used Country Chic Paint’s Silver Bullet.

Painting the feet of the barstool

Step 4: Create a chevron pattern on the seat of the stool

I used painter’s tape, a X-acto knife and a straight edge to create the chevron pattern on the top of the stool.

Applying a chevron pattern to the stool

Finally, I applied the metallic cream to the exposed areas on the top of the stool.

Chevron Barstool Makeover

I am happy with the barstool’s updated look!

Chevron barstool makeover with Country Chic Paints

The post Chevron Barstool Makeover – May’s FFFC appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Star Wars Marquee Wall Art Sign

I love Star Wars, and I love making things.  Combine the two and we have this homemade Star Wars Marquee sign!  Follow along for steps on how to make one for yourself, or the Star Wars fan in your life!

Star Wars Marquee Sign with lights off

(For sneak peeks on upcoming projects follow me on Facebook and Instagram!)

If you like this DIY, check out my tutorial on how to make a Star Wars TIE Fighter bookshelf!

Build a Star Wars TIE Fighter Bookshelf

Or this tutorial on how to make a BB-8 push toy!

BB-8 Push Toy in action!

Inspiration for this DIY comes from Pottery Barn Kids.  I was browsing their catalog and spotted this beauty!

Pottery Barn Kids Star Wars Marquee Sign | Source

Unfortunately, the price tag on the sign is $300 and thus way out of my price range.

I made my version of the sign over the course of a weekend, and  I was able to make my version for a tenth of the price!

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.  If you purchase an item via one of these links, I’ll receive a small commission at no added cost to you.  This helps keep the content on the site free and I appreciate the support!  

What You Will Need

The following items are some of the tools and supplies I gathered to create the Star Wars marquee:

Tools

• Circular Saw
• Brad Nailer
• Silhouette (for creating the Star Wars stencil)
• Drill (equipped with a 3/4 inch wood spade bit)
• Staple Gun
• Parallel clamps
• Sander
• Ruler
• Pencil

Supplies

• String Globe Lights (I purchased them here!)
• 2 – 6″ long cedar fence picket* (~ $2.50 each)
• 2 – 8″ long 1×2 furring strips (~ $1.25 each)
• Black Spray paint
• ECOS Paints Woodshield Stain (Golden Oak)
• ECOS Paints Woodshield Varnish (Satin)
• Contact Paper (for Silhouette stencil)
• Wood glue

*Version 2 of the sign I made use of some scrap 1×6 whitewood boards.  The first version of the marquee sign, I used cedar fence pickets that have been sitting in my garage for a few months.  They were nice and dry.  Unfortunately, while I was in the home stretch for finishing this project my son managed to destroy the sign.  I visited my local hardware store to purchase some more cedar fence pickets, but the boards in their stock were very damp.

*You could save a few steps and use a piece of plywood or MDF (33″ x 22″).  I glued up boards to create a wood panel because I wanted to make use of lumber from my scrap wood pile.

How to Make a Star Wars Marquee

Step 1:  Cut the fence pickets in half and create a panel from the four boards.

If you are not using cedar picket fences, cut 4 – 36 inches long 1×6 pieces.

Cedar pickets cut in half

Otherwise, cut each cedar fence picket in half.  Edge glue the boards together.  Wait for the glue to dry before moving onto the next step.

Edge glue joints with the Damstom 38″ panel clamp

Gluing up the boards for version two

Step 2:  Trim the edges of the wood panel.

Panel with uneven ends

Trim about an inch off the ends of the panel to create a straight edge. The length of the panel should be about 33″ inches long.

Using the Rockwell Versa Cut saw (with track guide) to trim up the boards

Step 3:  Cut the furring strips and attach strips to each side of the wood panel.

Make 4 cuts from the 1×2 furring strips.  Each piece will cover a side of the wood panel.  Attach the pieces to the panel with a brad nailer and wood glue.

I recommend that you cut the trim to size.  My measurements were:

• 33 inches (2x)
• 23.5 inches (2x)

The trim measured and cut

Trim attached to the four sides of the panel

Step 4:  Sand the surface of the panel.

I recently witness the ill effects of not wearing a mask while sanding (it wasn’t pretty).   Wear a dust mask and sand the panel until the surface is smooth.  Clear the panel of sawdust before starting the next step.

I used my belt sander for the rough sanding and followed up with my orbital sander.

Sanding the surface of the panel with a Ryobi Belt Sander

Step 5:  Stain the surface of the wood  panel.

Stain the top surface of the wood panel.  I used ECOS Paints Woodshield in Golden Oak.  You will want to pick a color that contrasts well with your second color.

Staining wood with ECOS Paints Woodshield – Golden Oak

Step 6:  Create a Star Wars stencil.

Creating the Star Wars stencil with the Silhouette Studio Editor

I created a Star Wars stencil with my Silhouette.  I imported an image of the Star Wars logo into Silhouette Studio editor and used the trace tool to capture the outline. I used Contact paper to create the stencil.  I followed the Shanty sister’s tutorial on creating a stencil with contact paper to get the perfect cut setting on my Silhouette.

You can download the Silhouette cut file I created here!

Star Wars logo stencil from Contact paper

Step 7:  Attach the Star Wars logo stencil and spray paint the sign.

I carefully transferred each letter to the board, and applied a couple of coats of black spray paint.

Spray painting the sign black

Step 8:  Seal the Star Wars sign with varnish.

Next, I applied two coats of ECOS Paints Woodshield Satin Varnish.

The sign is pretty large and a little heavy.

Varnish applied and dried

Step 9:  Drill holes for the globe light sockets.

Before drilling holes for the globe light sockets, take care and plan where to position each hole.  The lights I purchased came with 25 sockets.  I planned for each letter to have  3 bulbs.

I equipped my drill with a 3/4″ wood spade drill bit and drilled 24 holes.  (Heh, I missed one.)

Drilling 3/4″ holes

Step 10:  Install the string globe lights.

Push each socket into the holes and secure the wire with a staple gun.  Take great care during this step and avoid stapling the wire.

Secured the lights with a staple gun

Flip over the sign and install the light bulbs.

Screwed in the globe lights

Attach hardware to hang the sign or lean on a wall.

DIY Star Wars Marquee Wall Art

I am really happy with how the sign turned out.  The lights give off a really nice, warm glow. If you build the this Star Wars Marquee sign, please leave a comment below or tag me on Instagram @handmadewithashley or Twitter @handmadewithash.   I’d love to see your pictures!

Marquee lights off

Star Wars Marquee Wall Art Sign

Check out my other Star Wars projects here!

Pin it!

FOLLOW ME on Pinterest.

DIY Star Wars Marquee Sign Tutorial

I’m linking up to:

• The Kim Six Fix
• DIY Show Off
• Remodelaholic
• Silver Pennies
• Home Stories A to Z

Reader Projects <3

Vintage style Star Wars Marquee sign by @crouch17

The post DIY Star Wars Marquee Wall Art Tutorial appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Stuffed Animal Storage

What’s a DIY blogger’s worst fear? Losing all her in progress photos! I recently wrapped up building a wooden stuffed animal zoo (and unfortunately, I suffered from a bit of memory loss).  I built the toy storage following free plans by Ana White!  I also followed Jamie at That’s My Letter’s blog post on her build of the toy storage.  This is a really easy project, and you should be able to knock it out in one weekend.

(For sneak peeks on upcoming projects follow me on Facebook and Instagram!)

Stuffed Animals

Empty Stuffed Animal Zoo

How to Build A Wooden Stuffed Animal Zoo

As I mentioned earlier, I lost most of my in progress photos.  *insert sad face* Once you have the frame of the toy zoo built, sanded, stained (or painted) and sealed it’s time to add the hardware and rope!  This was actually the hardest part of the entire project for me.

For the finish, I used ECOS Paints Woodshield Stain (Special Walnut) and Varnish (Satin).

Install the Eye Screws

You will want to have a pair of pliers on hand for screwing in the eye screws.  By the time I reached the last eye screw, my hands were pretty sore.

Screw eyes for supporting the rope

Eye screws inserted from a far

String and secure the rope

I cut four pieces of rope (one for each side), looped it through the eyes of the screws, and secured each end with a rope clamp.  Closing the clamps was a bit of a tedious process.  In hindsight, I think I would have used one long piece of rope so I would only need to secure two ends.

Rope and rope clamps

My son thinks the toy zoo could double as a jungle gym

Rope installed and secured

DIY Wooden Stuffed Animal Zoo Storage

This wooden zoo is a really nice way to store your little one’s stuffed animals!

My stuffed Domo-kun collection

An empty zoo

DIY Stuffed Animal Storage

DIY Stuffed Animal Zoo Toy Storage

The post DIY Stuffed Animal Storage (Plans by Ana White) appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

Poang Makeover

Painted Poang Makeover

I enjoy lounging around in my IKEA Poang. It has served me well over the past couple of years, however, there has always been one thing I didn’t like about it:  it’s a little bland in appearance and I enjoy colorful things.   This month I participated in a furniture decorating contest, and I used the opportunity to give my little chair a pop of color!  Today, I want to share with you the steps I took to update its look.  However before I get started, I want to introduce you to the Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest!

The Fab Furniture Flippin’ Contest is a monthly furniture decorating contest.  Each month there is a new theme and a new sponsor.  February’s theme is “Make a Statement,” and February’s sponsor is DecoArt!

DecoArt

DecoArt carries a huge range of paint products!  If you are a crafter or a DIYer or a fine artist or a mixed media artist, they got you covered.  (I love their Triple Thick Gloss Glaze!  I used it to seal the bowling pins for my scrap wood bowling lane project.)

February’s fab hosts are Carrie from Thirty Eighth Street and Charlotte from Ciburbanity. Our fab hosts kicked off this month’s contest with amazing pieces of their own. Be sure to check out Carrie’s and Charlotte’s furniture flips. If you are a blogger and you are interested in participating in future contests, please send an email to info@fabfurnitureflippincontest.com.

The Poang Makeover

The original Poang

I like the natural appearance of the Poang, but I really wanted it to have a bit of color.  The happy medium I reached was to paint the Poang’s edges and leave the other areas unpainted.

I removed the chair’s cushion and got to work!

Poang Frame

Each contestant in this month’s competition received up to 2 jars of DecoArt’s Chalky Finish Paint and a jar of their finishes.  For my fab flip I chose Fortune and Heritage.

DecoArt Chalk Paints

I first painted the edges of the Poang with a few coats of Fortune chalky paint.

Painted the Poang sides green

Once the edges dried, I used a stencil to paint a pattern on the chair’s frame.  Here I alternated between Fortune and Heritage.  The chair’s home is in the playroom, so I choose a pattern that felt fun.

Painting with a stencil

The new look works the space, but in hindsight I wish I painted the entire chair a solid color, maybe in Smitten. It’s a pretty pink color.

Painted Poang Chair Makeover

The post Painted Poang Makeover – February’s FFFC appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

Star Lord and Gamora costumes | Photo by Cosplay in America

My friends and I attended Gen Con  several months ago, and for the first time ever we cosplayed!  Gen Con is a huge 4 day tabletop gaming convention located in Indianapolis, Indiana.  On Friday of the convention we dressed up as members of Marvel’s Guardians of the Galaxy.  It was a fun experience and I want to share with you the details behind creating the costumes.  Previously, I described the steps I took to create Rocket Raccoon’s costume.  Today, let’s talk about details behind Star Lord’s costume!

(For sneak peeks on upcoming projects follow me on Facebook and Instagram!)

RELATED POSTS:

• DIY Baby Groot Costume
• DIY Rocket Raccoon Costume Part 1
• DIY Rocket Raccoon Costume Part 2

“We’re the Guardians of the Galaxy…” | Photo by Cosplay in America

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.

Star Lord’s Clothing

For Star Lord’s clothing, I purchased the following items:

• Greyish blue t-shirt
• Star Lord Leather Jacket
• Brown half chaps

My husband carried a khaki messenger bag he owned that was similiar in appearance to Star Lord’s bag.

Star Lord’s Leather Jacket

Red Galaxy Leather Jacket | Source

I was really happy to find a leather jacket very similar in appearance to the leather jacket Star Lord wore in the movie.  I purchased the jacket off Amazon.  It runs large.  I ordered the small size and my husband was swimming in it.  He’s about 150 lbs and 5’8″.  Fortunately, returns were really easy, and I ordered a x-small .  I think if an xx-small existed, that would have been the perfect fit.

Star Lord’s Quad Blasters

Marvel Guardians of the Galaxy Star Lord Quad Blaster | Source

For Star Lord’s Quad Blasters, I had most of my work cut out for me.  Nerf released a Quad Blaster gun.   I purchased two blasters from Amazon.  I was not crazy for the bright orange color, so gave the blasters a much needed makeover.

UPDATE: I noticed the Nerf Quad Blaster gun is no longer available on Amazon (for a reasonable price anyway). Here’s a decent alternative: Star Lord Elemental Blaster.

Before & After Star Lord’s Quad Blaster Makeover

Here’s how I did it:

Step 1:  Disassemble the nerf gun.

You’ll need a jewelers precision screwdrive set to disassemble the nerf gun

Grab a jewelers precision screwdriver set and remove the screws holding the orange pieces in place.  I recommend taking pictures as you disassemble the gun.  This will help you once it is time to reassemble the gun.

Quad Blaster Nerf Gun disassembled

Step 2:  Spray paint the individual pieces.

Spray paint the main body of the gun with black spray paint.  Spray paint the orange pieces with a silver or gray spray paint.

Spray painting the nerf gun pieces silver

Step 3:  Reassemble the nerf gun

Reattach the pieces of the nerf gun.  This step can be a little tricky.  I recommend that you take pictures while disassembling the gun to use as a reference for putting it all back together.

Make the nerf gun whole again

Step 4:  Paint in the extra details

For the final step, I grabbed some acrylic craft paints and painted in a few details.   I also applied a black wash to give the blaster a more grungy, worn look.

Painting in a few details

I also rubbed in a bit of silver leaf Rub’n Buff.

DIY Star Lord Costume

Star Lord’s costume was pretty easy to put together.  If I had the time, I would have loved to make his mask.

Star Lord costume

Star Lord costume

Star Lord and Gamora costumes | Photo by Cosplay in America

The post DIY Star Lord Costume Tutorial appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.

DIY Star Wars Jewelry: Darth Vader Necklace

We are just 2 days away from the release of Star Wars Force Awakens, and today I’m continuing my “Countdown to Star Wars” series with a tutorial on how to make your own Star Wars jewelry!

(For sneak peaks on upcoming projects follow me on Facebook and Instagram!)

DIY Darth Vader Necklace

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.

 Tools and Supplies

Here’s a list of items you’ll need to gather to create the Darth Vader necklaces:

• Star Wars Silicon Ice Molds
• Epoxy Resin (Clear)
• Disposable Medicine cups
• Stir sticks
• Glitter
• Acrylic paints
• Heat gun
• E6000 Glue
• Leaf bail
• Necklace chain

Darth Vader Ice Mold

How to Make a Resin Darth Vader Necklace

Step 1:  Mix together equal parts of resin and hardener.

This step may vary depending upon which brand of resin you choose.  (My personal preference is Ice Resin, but EasyCast has worked well for me most of the time, and it’s cheaper.)  Follow the box instructions and take the recommended safety precautions.  I purchased a bag of disposable medicine cups and use the cups for both measuring and mixing together the resin.

It’s critical that you take care and  ensure the resin is measured at the correct amounts.  Also make sure the two parts are thoroughly mixed together.  (I have ruined several pendants because the resin never hardened because of a misstep at this step.)

Once the resin is mixed, add in color.  You can use resin dyes, but I think simple acrylic craft paint works very well.  You do want to be careful.  A little paint can go a long way for coloring the resin.

Mixing together resin

Step 2:  Add in glitter.

To add a nice bit of sparkle, sprinkle in a bit of glitter.

Glitter

It is tempting to become very generous with glitter as you sprinkle it into the resin.  A little glitter can go a long way as well.   Too much glitter and you may end up with something like this:

Too much glitter

Although, it may be just the look you’re going for.

Step 3:  Pour the resin into the mold.

Pour the resin mix into your silicon mold.   Once your ice mold has come into contact with resin, it must never be used for food consumption again.

Pouring resin into a Darth Vader ice mold

Step 4:   Remove air bubbles.

As you mixed your resin, you might have noticed air bubbles forming.  You can remove the bubbles with heat.  I used my Martha Stewart heat tool to remove all the air bubbles from my pendants.

Heat tool for removing air bubbles

Once you’ve removed the last air bubble, set the mold aside for 24 hours to allow for the resin to cure.

Step 5:  De-mold the resin Darth Vader pendants.

After 24 hours have passed, your resin pendants should be cured.  The cure times may vary depending upon which resin you use.  Remove the pendants from the silicon mold.

Lots of Darth Vaders

At this point you may want to sand the edges down.  Do this in a well ventilated room wearing a dust mask.

Step 6:  Attach a leaf bail and string the pendant with a necklace chain.

Attach a leaf bail to the Darth Vader pendant with E6000 glue and allow it to dry.   Now you ready to wear your piece of jewelry!

DIY Darth Vader Necklace

DIY Darth Vader Necklace

DIY Darth Vader Necklace

For sneak peaks on upcoming projects follow me on Facebook and Instagram!

To the theater!

Check out my other Star Wars themed projects!

DIY Star Wars Marquee Wall Art Sign

DIY Star Wars Marquee Wall Art Sign

DIY Star Wars Jewelry: Darth Vader Necklace

Build a Star Wars TIE Fighter Bookshelf

Build a Star Wars TIE Fighter Bookshelf

DIY Star Wars Salt Dough Ornaments

DIY Star Wars Salt Dough Ornaments

Crochet Princess Leia Hat

The post DIY Star Wars Jewelry: Darth Vader Necklace Tutorial appeared first on Handmade with Ashley.